Sunday, July 4, 2010

Lohr - Mirror Mirror on the Wall


In a secluded valley in northern Bavaria is a  lovely castle (Mespelbrunn) that somehow escaped the ravages of war and remained intact through the centuries.  The oldest part of the castle is the tower dating back to the thirteenth century.  In the fifteenth century, a knight - Herman Echter, started the construction of the castle proper and it remains in the family to this day.  Part of the castle is occupied by Countess Marie Antoinette von Ingelheim.  Included in the castle are the collected heirlooms of succeeding  generations of this family, including portraits, gifts of all kinds, furnishings, armor and accouterments of knighthood.

Given the significant value of the possessions, a guided tour is the only way to view the site.  The assorted displays provided a rich visual of one family's involvements covering five centuries of occupation.  There is a literal tug of the senses, as one takes in the picturesque setting, the beautiful moated castle, the quaint little chapel, the immaculate grounds and combine this with the realization that a living history of one family's experiences covering generations is represented.  It somehow ties the past to the present with a common thread making the link more real.

Our day was not done.  We decided to take a back road, travelling generally in a direction back to Frankfurt.  We thought we would take in whatever sites captured our interest.  It turned out to be town of Lohr on the Main River.


Although originally built as a military fortified castle in the 14th century, within 100 years it became an imposing residence.  Feudal lords took over the residence and it eventually acquired the look and form we see today.  It now houses a museum which was given a new concept in 1980: a permanent exhibition entitled "Mensch und Wald" which means "Man and Forest."  It attempts to depict the life of the common man and woman of the middle ages.  This theme and focus aroused our interest and prompted us to have a look.
In the past, life of the inhabitants was mostly one of poverty and misery. The museum contains examples of the many crafts and trades which bear witness to how their ingenuity and skill helped them survive.  Stone cutters, potters, blacksmiths, carpenters, shipwrights, cartwrights, joiners, glass makers all took advantage of local resources to produce not only basic commodities, but also luxury goods for the upper classes.

This is one of the fabled locations of Snow White's birth.  In the nearby forests, the notorious poverty required individuals of very small stature to navigate the tunnels to exploit the mineral resources.  Additionally, many were able craftsmen in the working of glass.  Lohr has for centuries been associated with fine work in glass and mirrors, thereby explaining Snow White's glass coffin. However  'la piece de resistance' was on the third floor.  There hangs the 'magic mirror that always spoke the truth.'


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