Sunday, July 25, 2010

Burg Eltz - Intact though the ages



Our long awaited visit to Burg Eltz finally arrived.  We had heard much about this castle and were determined to visit it on a day when it wasn't too hot as there was a hike into the site that would prove most enjoyable when we could fully enjoy the surroundings.  It was a twenty minute walk to the castle, but unlike most other jaunts this one was down hill.  I thought it kind of odd they would put a castle in a valley given the strategic advantage a prominent position affords.  Half way down the trail there was look out point where we had a perfect vantage point of the castle and its position in the valley.  It actually sits on a rock promentory in the middle of a heavily wooded valley with a stream appearing to circumnavigate the castle walls.  This setting was not only picture pretty, but extremely isolated.  There was no village or town nearby.  This is what inevitably saved it from the ravages of war and conquering armies.  So it remains the same - unchanged through the centuries and therein lies the appeal of Burg Eltz.  It retains the furnishings, character and charm of  its former days.

We were relatively early and joined with a church group from south west England visiting Germany to see the Passion Play. Consequently, the tour was in English a rare bonus.   I could see from the size of the parking lots that this was a frequently visited site.  We proceeded from the armory room to the residences, the kitchen, to the guest rooms each filled with period furnishings giving a good cross section of the life and times of its inhabitants.  In addition there was a museum with artifacts of every kind to further enhance the flavor of the time.

This castle now takes a prominent position among our now extensive list of sites we have visited.  At some point I will take the time to differentiate between a castle and a fortress.  Although there is a cross over in many instances, it is not appropriate or helpful to compare the two, as they both served quite different purposes.

Thirty three generations of the same family have maintained residence here and have also retained the heirlooms and accouterments, both great and small of successive generations.  This allows for a true to life  chronicle over many centuries.  The tour guide indicated for a long period, there were three families resident in the castle, but now only one occupies a portion of it.  As you can see from the picture, great efforts are being made to stabilize this structure.  Age is takings its toll and cracks and fissures have formed, requiring ingenuous methods to counter the ongoing weathering process while still maintaining the original aesthetic appeal.

Not far from Burg Eltz is a tiny hamlet called Beilstein on the Mosel River.  We decided to take in this quaint little river side stop as it was noted for its picturesque setting on the Mosel, and also as a premier bed and breakfast location for visitors wanting a good staging point to visit interesting sites in the region.  We had lunch here and enjoyed a leisurely afternoon strolling through the narrow streets full of half timbered houses, quaint shops, friendly people and a gorgeous view of the vineyards covering the hillside.  I  find these Saturday sojourns a welcome reprieve from the intense emotional demands of my weekly assignment.  We are fortunate there are so many places to see within a couple hours of Frankfurt.

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