Sunday, December 13, 2009

Johnnesberg - The Wood Carver & Aschaffenburg

One of the oft mentioned places to visit by  a number of tourists was the wood carver in Johnnesberg.  Literally thousands of dollars have been spent on the fine wood carvings by American visitors every year.  I went with the expectation a few dozen well crafted carvings suitable for purchase as representations of German contribution to this art form. I had seen some magnificent wood carvings on earlier visits (like the one on the left) so it quite a surprise to enter room after room of carvings from 1 cm in height to some over a meter.

The variety was the first surprise.  It was Christmas so there were creche scenes in various sizes with all the appropriate animals, human figurines, and background structures carved with such intricate detail so as to discern character traits in the facial features. At least two good size rooms were devoted to Christmas carvings. Germans typically will begin an annual tradition of purchasing one or two items, and each year adding to the collection until they have a full creche scene.  The prices reflect the crafstmanship.  Prices ranged from  a few euros for a tiny hen or duck up to 2600 euro for large meter tall carvings. Carvings of animals and male and female figurines of all sizes were in abundance, many of them with historically appropriate garb either real of fabled.  I reserved a carving of two horses drawing a winter sleigh loaded down with logs.  They even have Moroni kneeling over the gold plates in a posture of prayer with a sword propped on his side.  It was odd how many of these carvings made me think of scenes at home of people I know who would enjoy this combination of art and craft. This has to be shared.


We then went to Aschaffenburg to take in some of the sites Arendje had looked up prior to the trip.  We have been asked to sit on a committee to arrange tours and suggest interesting sites for the missionary group to visit.   We stopped at the tourist information kiosk and loaded up on brochures and then proceeded to visit what we had time for, with the intent of looking at possible places for others to see.  Of course, we had to take in the Christmas Market with its smaller town character and charm.  As with almost every place we visit there is something that sets it apart, something unique, something that stands out in a memorable way.   Aschaffenburg was no exception.  This city of 70,000 was voted Germany's most desireable place to live.  Even before we became aware of that fact Arendje had commented about the acccessible and pedestrian friendly downtown area.  Street after street was designated pedestrians only, so shops of all types made this shopping atmosphere quite enjoyable even for me.  Most shops open doors with colorful displays making browsing convenient and varied.  I wondered about security as many seemed to have their wares so accessible as to be prone to shoplifters.  This did not appear to be a concern.

To add to the inviting atmosphere are the normal accouterments I have come to expect; the museums ( we went to one), old churches, markets, abundant parks, and old houses.  To this, Aschenfanburg adds a very picturesque setting on the Mainze River, festivals throughout the year with a rich Franconian cultural heritage, sports venues and a very cosmopolitan atmosphere.  It is 20 minutes form the Frankfurt airport, so it is no surprise this city has found its place as a staging point for tourists and business clientelle alike.  The following is a great photo depiction with a bundle of historically significant images of Aschaffenburg.  We left our cameras at home today.

Sunday, December 6, 2009

Christmas Markets (Weihnactsmarkt)


Weihnactsmarkt (Christmas Market) is a wonderful and ancient tradition in Germany.  There were markets set up in major towns to allow crafts people to sell their wares before Christmas. (Remember it is the Germans that started the Christmas tree tradition). We visited Frankfurt's Christmas Market (apparently the largest in Germany) and spent most of the day browsing an array of small and large craft items.  Decorations galore adorned these small stands making for a colorful and lively market display.  In addition to decorations there is pottery, hand crafted jewelery, woodcraft, and all kinds of food.  There are expected to be 3 million visitors this year.
The Christmas Market has its origin as far back as 1393 when ecclesiastical mystery plays were held in the Romerberg.  The original play was supposedly based on a chance encounter, when King Otto the Great and his brother Heinrich reconciled after a long period of estrangement.  Heinrich is said to have fallen to his knees before his brother outside the chapel after Christmas Mass.

Germans are characterized by their hard work, hearty appetites, love of beer and an exuberant penchant for celebrating .  You put that all together at Christmas time and you will have a festive celebration that is hard to match.  I regret that you are not here to see this and more importantly, to feel the energy and festive air.
Negotiating though the masses of people was a challenge - being a northern BC boy, I am used to my space.  That is something not easily found in downtown Frankfurt at Christmas.

This entry would not be complete without commenting on the food.  There is no shortage here, meats and sausages of all kinds, barbecued, fried, grilled and sauteed.   The little kiosks appeared to be able to cook up anything including waffles, crepes, potato pancakes and Quiche Lorraine.  Arendje was even finding cookies and treats she remembered from her childhood in Holland.  I too saw French and Belge food products including bagettes and Belgium and Swiss chocolates.  I finally settled on a hot buttered corn on the cob - a fine treat in December.  It would take months and a hefty dining-out budget to begin to sample the variety of specialty foods available here.  Drinks also come in almost as rich an assortment as the food.  Germans appear to love their Gluhwein, a hot, sweet red wine marketed especially for the wet and wintry December day.  The inclement weather did not appear to dampen the enthusiasm the Germans have for the deeply ingrained Christmas traditions.  Add a little snow, my family here to enjoy this with me and I would be hard pressed to find anything to add to this Christmas season.