Johnnesberg - The Wood Carver & Aschaffenburg

One of the oft mentioned places to visit by  a number of tourists was the wood carver in Johnnesberg.  Literally thousands of dollars have been spent on the fine wood carvings by American visitors every year.  I went with the expectation a few dozen well crafted carvings suitable for purchase as representations of German contribution to this art form. I had seen some magnificent wood carvings on earlier visits (like the one on the left) so it quite a surprise to enter room after room of carvings from 1 cm in height to some over a meter.

The variety was the first surprise.  It was Christmas so there were creche scenes in various sizes with all the appropriate animals, human figurines, and background structures carved with such intricate detail so as to discern character traits in the facial features. At least two good size rooms were devoted to Christmas carvings. Germans typically will begin an annual tradition of purchasing one or two items, and each year adding to the collection until they have a full creche scene.  The prices reflect the crafstmanship.  Prices ranged from  a few euros for a tiny hen or duck up to 2600 euro for large meter tall carvings. Carvings of animals and male and female figurines of all sizes were in abundance, many of them with historically appropriate garb either real of fabled.  I reserved a carving of two horses drawing a winter sleigh loaded down with logs.  They even have Moroni kneeling over the gold plates in a posture of prayer with a sword propped on his side.  It was odd how many of these carvings made me think of scenes at home of people I know who would enjoy this combination of art and craft. This has to be shared.


We then went to Aschaffenburg to take in some of the sites Arendje had looked up prior to the trip.  We have been asked to sit on a committee to arrange tours and suggest interesting sites for the missionary group to visit.   We stopped at the tourist information kiosk and loaded up on brochures and then proceeded to visit what we had time for, with the intent of looking at possible places for others to see.  Of course, we had to take in the Christmas Market with its smaller town character and charm.  As with almost every place we visit there is something that sets it apart, something unique, something that stands out in a memorable way.   Aschaffenburg was no exception.  This city of 70,000 was voted Germany's most desireable place to live.  Even before we became aware of that fact Arendje had commented about the acccessible and pedestrian friendly downtown area.  Street after street was designated pedestrians only, so shops of all types made this shopping atmosphere quite enjoyable even for me.  Most shops open doors with colorful displays making browsing convenient and varied.  I wondered about security as many seemed to have their wares so accessible as to be prone to shoplifters.  This did not appear to be a concern.

To add to the inviting atmosphere are the normal accouterments I have come to expect; the museums ( we went to one), old churches, markets, abundant parks, and old houses.  To this, Aschenfanburg adds a very picturesque setting on the Mainze River, festivals throughout the year with a rich Franconian cultural heritage, sports venues and a very cosmopolitan atmosphere.  It is 20 minutes form the Frankfurt airport, so it is no surprise this city has found its place as a staging point for tourists and business clientelle alike.  The following is a great photo depiction with a bundle of historically significant images of Aschaffenburg.  We left our cameras at home today.

Christmas Markets (Weihnactsmarkt)

Weihnactsmarkt (Christmas Market) is a wonderful and ancient tradition in Germany.  There were markets set up in major towns to allow crafts people to sell their wares before Christmas. (Remember it is the Germans that started the Christmas tree tradition). We visited Frankfurt's Christmas Market (apparently the largest in Germany) and spent most of the day browsing an array of small and large craft items.  Decorations galore adorned these small stands making for a colorful and lively market display.  In addition to decorations there is pottery, hand crafted jewelery, woodcraft, and all kinds of food.  There are expected to be 3 million visitors this year.
The Christmas Market has its origin as far back as 1393 when ecclesiastical mystery plays were held in the Romerberg.  The original play was supposedly based on a chance encounter, when King Otto the Great and his brother Heinrich reconciled after a long period of estrangement.  Heinrich is said to have fallen to his knees before his brother outside the chapel after Christmas Mass.

Germans are characterized by their hard work, hearty appetites, love of beer and an exuberant penchant for celebrating .  You put that all together at Christmas time and you will have a festive celebration that is hard to match.  I regret that you are not here to see this and more importantly, to feel the energy and festive air.
Negotiating though the masses of people was a challenge - being a northern BC boy, I am used to my space.  That is something not easily found in downtown Frankfurt at Christmas.

This entry would not be complete without commenting on the food.  There is no shortage here, meats and sausages of all kinds, barbecued, fried, grilled and sauteed.   The little kiosks appeared to be able to cook up anything including waffles, crepes, potato pancakes and Quiche Lorraine.  Arendje was even finding cookies and treats she remembered from her childhood in Holland.  I too saw French and Belge food products including bagettes and Belgium and Swiss chocolates.  I finally settled on a hot buttered corn on the cob - a fine treat in December.  It would take months and a hefty dining-out budget to begin to sample the variety of specialty foods available here.  Drinks also come in almost as rich an assortment as the food.  Germans appear to love their Gluhwein, a hot, sweet red wine marketed especially for the wet and wintry December day.  The inclement weather did not appear to dampen the enthusiasm the Germans have for the deeply ingrained Christmas traditions.  Add a little snow, my family here to enjoy this with me and I would be hard pressed to find anything to add to this Christmas season.
                                                                            

Gutenberg Press

History is defined and shaped by events, geography, conflicts, discovery and invention.  The ultimate expression is defined by people, individuals who leave an indelible mark of the tapestry of time. In that regard, perhaps the greatest single invention to revolutionize a time period was brought about by Johannes Gutenberg. In 1999, the A & E Network ranked Gutenberg # 1 on their "People of the Millennium" countdown, and in 1997, Time-Life magazine picked Gutenberg's invention as the most important of the second millenium.


Mainz, the birthplace of Gutenberg( 1498) is also a city with deep ties to the past.  Eleven museums beckon the historically astute traveler.  The city itself has an ancient heritage, claiming to be the first Roman encampment in 38 BC and later established by Drusus in 13 BC as the capital of Upper Germany.  Here was constructed the largest theater north of the Alps around 300 AD.  At about 400 AD Roman rule came to an end.  Archbishops then dominated the scene.  Their influence was profound in the architecture, the arts, and during the crusades, on the unfortunate Jewish community in their midst.   On our visit the Cathedral of Mainz was celebrating 1000 years in 2009. The late gothic cloister is an imposing structure towering over the bustling Christmas market.

The majority of our day was spent in the Gutenberg Museum, the home of an array of displays covering over a 1000 years of printing history.  Several floors of this expansive collection include artifacts, books, printing processes and machines of not only German, but most European countries, China Japan and the works from the Muslim world.  It would take days to study it all, although it is laid out for both the scholar and layman alike.  There was sufficient reading material in English to make sense of what we were looking at, but the scope of the exhibit allowed for a contribution to the knowledge at whatever level one was approaching it.

  Although Gutenberg never achieved much recognition during his life, he left behind an immeasurable contribution to the cultural, scientific, literary and religious climate of the renaisssance period and beyond.  Johannes Gutenberg said the idea of of incorporating a removable type came to him "as a ray of light".  The idea itself, clearly generated time and cost savings from the previous script form or reproduction.  It would take time before the true significance of this invention would begin to realize its immense benefits.  It began slowly with works of poetry and then the landmark printing of what is referred to as the Gutenberg Bible.  It alone can be described as a critical element in the reformation which was to change the face of Europe.  To quote another site:
Gutenberg's contribution to printing was the development of a punch and mold system which allowed the mass production of the movable type used to reproduce a page of text. These letters would be put together in a type tray which was then used to print a page of text. If a letter broke down, it could be replaced.  When the printing of the copies of one page was finished, the type could be reused for the next page or the next book.

It was Frankfurt that was an early center for printing and so it sponsored a book fair which drew publishers, booksellers, collectors and scholars where they could find what they needed for their livelihoods. This helped coordinate supply and demand which in turn spurned the literary movement and perhaps defined the essence of the meaning of "renaissance."
Housed in what was referred to as a "strong room" were two copies of the Gutenberg Bible.  These are the prizes of the collection and for good reason.  We owe much to Martin Luther and Gutenburg for making accessible to all knowledge and consequently some of the freedoms we enjoy today.
Although this blog entry offers little in terms of  visual appeal,  I hope it at leaves the impression that this form of cultural pursuit is also worthy of your time.

Wartburg - a Composite

I had envisioned travelling to places where I could capture a particular period or epoch in time and be transported back to taste  the flavor of life as they lived it so long ago.  If they would but provide the setting, I would allow my rather vivid imagination to do the rest.  I was to learn another lesson on this trip.  Time does not stand still.  As Robert Baird wrote: " time flies on wings of lightning, we cannot call it back ."  It is rare to find any structure that fully represents what it once was, at any given moment in time.   The same is true in terms of architecture; each new occupant leaves their own imprint even when that imprint is an attempt to recapture the essence of the previous generation.  Their own interpretation is colored by influences of their generation.  


This is the case with the Wartburg Castle.  It is an amalgam of multiple periods, each shaped to a degree by the contributions of its occupants, designers, or the influence of legendary figures who visited Wartburg or made it their home.  It is described as Germany's most favored castle and judging by the number of visitors on this late November day, I can say that there were more  visitors than at others we have visited of late.  I am going to let some of the links tell the story. They do it very well.


This was our first trip to the former East Germany.  Although things have changed dramatically,  Alfie shared some interesting tidbits about every place we passed.   East Germany experienced a significant exodus during the years of occupation.  Now Germans are slowly moving back as property is still to be had there, a little cheaper.  Much of Germany's infrastructure capital has been directed to rebuilding  the East.  This has represented a significant financial burden on the economy.  However, German ingenuity, determination and pride are clearly evident in the arts, the orderly reconstruction and the devoted attention they pay to their cultural and linguistic heritage.  There is much to be admired here in this beautiful country. 

Four things that standout about our visit to Wartburg.  The fascinating story of St  Elizabeth. Martin Luther translated the New Testament from Greek to German at Wartburg, thus creating the foundation of the Protestant faith and the reformation and at the same time, standardizing the German language.   German students met here paving the way for German unity.  In early centuries, it became the gathering place, along with the town of Eisenach, for poets, playwrights,  artists and musicians.  It's rich cultural heritage was maintained throughout the centuries.  Architecturally, the castle underwent almost constant renovation while maintaining vestiges of each era, quite an accomplishment.  Although this might be best represented as a cultural collage, it has somehow tied them together into a powerful visually engaging way to depict an old castle.

I would like to spend some of my space relating a little about our guide.  The lady in this picture is named Alfie. She lives in our high rise in Frankfurt. She was born and raised near Wartburg in a town called Gotha, in former East Germany.  She provided a running dialogue of places, history and personal experiences that made for a memorable and most enjoyable day.  Her wry sense of humor, quick wit and German candor kept us amused the whole time.  She adopted me as 'her son' and kept referring to me as 'the psychiatrist who would probably her lock up before the day was over'.  She took us to her home town about 30 kilometres from Wartburg and described her experiences during the war as a girl and the subsequent Russian occupation.  She was honored by her home town a few years back.  We were not able to gather from her the full extent for which the town claims her as their own, but the impression is that she was a gifted opera singer or pianist and has performed and traveled extensively, consequently her English is very good.  We will find out more as we plan to engage her in some of our outings.

Felsenmeer [the sea of rocks]

We went off the beaten track to find this place.  What you see is referred to as a felsenmeer.  We use this word in English (although it comes from German) to refer to an outcropping of rocks often found near the tree line on a gentle slope.  These have been polished by glaciation and weathering and were broken up by constant freezing and thawing of water seeping into the rock face.  We actually came to this place to see an ancient quarry used by the Romans since about 200 AD.  Scattering amongst this rock debris are signs of stone mason's handiwork strewn over the hillside.  To see the whole site required a rigorous hike.  I was up for the it.  I continued on in search of other signs of stonework deemed not suitable for transport off the site.  I found this one near to the top of the ridge.  After looking at this I decided I wouldn't want to haul it down either.  This one was made in the 4th century. It is 30.8 feet long and weighs 27.5 tons.  This was miles from anywhere and now so was I.  I began to feel guilty as Arendje was waiting for me two or three kilometers below.  The stone masons must have known what they were looking for, as what I thought  were excellent pieces of granite were abandoned, obviously flawed in some way.  

At the Information Centre at Felsenmeer, we spoke with the patrons and they told us some places to see nearby.  The highlight was a place called Heppenheim to see the old Rathaus.  This is the heart of wine country.  The square was empty when we arrived, unusual for a Saturday afternoon.  Of course it is November and the tourists are long gone.  I was able to take this unobstructed picture, which is a rare shot.  This beautiful medieval city was enchanting with its 17th and 18th century wood frame houses.  Some were quite a bit older.  We went to visit a 19th century Catholic church which had an excellent collection of stain glassed windows.  I think the Catholic Church should give us an honorary membership as we are devoted attendees in every community we visit.  We did not stay very long here however, as we had a couple of other places to see and by this time we had both worked up quite an appetite.

       This warranted a picture.  It was outdoor train set with a collection of old style fire hydrants.  I was not sure what the connection was, but it made for an interesting stop.  The church is right behind me in the background.  If I were to live in Germany, it would be in a town very similar to this.  I must be a romantic at heart.  We both seem to enjoy our Saturday jaunts. Certainly some things are beginning to reflect elements familiar to previous sites, yet it seems to capture enough of the history to give it an enduring appeal.  If you look carefully at the half timbered house, on the lower right it shows a bombed out portion, as was the lot for much of Germany in the last days of the Second World War.

    Auerbach Fortress   was constructed in the 13th century and there is folklore (Gina for you) attached to this site.  It was built to protect the property of the very powerful and rich monastery Lorsch.  This fortress has two walls.  The outer constitutes  a defensive perimeter.  Once past the first, there was still a stronger and bigger inner wall to negotiate.  It was impressive as well, in that it occupied the summit of the largest hill in the region.  The view was a full 360 degrees especially from the vantage point of the uppermost guard tower which we both climbed.    You can see it in this picture.                                                                                     

This last picture of a pine tree growing right in the walkway of highest part of the fortress.  On 18 October 1356, a huge earthquake shook the Rhine Rift. The donjon (central tower) collapsed, and crashed onto the eastern and southeastern buildings. In they years thereafter,  a period of rebuilding and expansion took place.  In place of the east-tower a bastion, an approximately four meters thick quarter-circle shaped wall construction was built. The bastion, the first facility of its kind in Germany, was to protect the castle from stone cannons from the northeast. Probably the north- and south-tower were also raised. We climbed the north tower, right behind where this picture was taken. In the eastern corner of the inner courtyard of the castle the former well is recognizable, which was hewn 62 meters deep in the rock

Wiesbaden: meadow bath

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Geothermal activity is at the heart of why this city was developed at the time of the Romans.  The early discovery of  hot springs, is the heart of what is today the city of Wiesbaden [which translates into 'meadow bath'].  The Kockbrunnen (hot fountain) was first mentioned in 1366.  From the vantage point of this photo, we could see steam eminating from four different sources.  The temperature of the most famous sodium-chloride thermal spring is 66 degrees centigrade and gushes 346 litres of mineral water per minute.  It was a cold, damp day when we took this picture and the thought of sitting in a hot pool about that time was very appealing.

I have been scanning the internet for places to find world famous artisans of cuckoo clocks.  This one we almost walked by without noticing.  It is a store front and billed as the largest cuckoo clock in the world... a little more than what I need.  Inside the store were a significant collection of finely crafted cuckoo clocks.  They were not cheap, many of them in the range of 300 to 1000 Euros.
This clock was mounted in 1946 and made for a most engaging eye catcher for local shoppers.

The Black Forest is the source of the world's most famous craftsmen in this most fascinating form of art.  Next summer we will take a trip to see some of the factories where they are made and see if our budget can handle a modest clock.  The factories will ship it in a kit form to Canada and thus avoid the 19 percent tax attached to most items.

These are two different vantage points of the same church.  It is called the Lutheran Market Church and was built from 1852-62 as a Gothic Revival Basilica with three naves.  Germany is the home of Marin Luther and his footprint is found throughout Germany.  It is the tallest structure in the city and has a dominating presence.  The statue is of a young William of Orange I.

This church with five golden cupolas was built as a sepulchre for the mortal remains of the wife of Duke Adolf, Grand Duchess Elizabeth Michailovna and her baby.  The Russian Cemetery was laid out in 1856. The famous painter Alexej Jawlensky is buried here next door in the adjoining cemetery.

The attention to detail and the ornate design work in the interior reflect incredible skill and craftsmanship.  The story behind this edifice is a sad one and worth the time to read.  Just follow the link.

I don't think I will tire of seeing the churches here. They have appeal on so many dimensions. To imagine the work and dedication that went into these structures and on the other hand, the sacrifice, speaks to the feelings that generate such devoted attention.  Some clearly are from the well spring of greed and sophistry, while others testify of the spiritual yearnings of earlier times.

Our last stop on this dreary day was to the ruins of a castle called Sonnenburg established around 1200 AD.  A German king resided here in 1292.  Now it is only a shadow of what it once was.  Overcast skies seemed to further add to the stark remains.

Arendje took a number of pictures. I  wondered what she was doing.  She appeared to want to capture the feeling we both felt as we tried to take in the scope of the castle's perimeter.  That was hard to define given development in and around the site.



From a view at the highest point of the ruin next to the keep pictured to the right, we watched a soccer game going on several hundred feet below.  I wonder if scenes like this were repeated through the centuries.

Since the destruction of the castle, houses have been constructed in and against the ruins.  I contemplated on whether the current inhabitants sense the paradox.  They are living in part of a structure that holds so much history behind it.

These pictures of course only represent a small part of what we saw today.  We were both a little cold and wet before we called it a day, but the inclement weather allowed a perspective we might not have acquired otherwise.          

Hanau - Parks and Fairy Tales

Pull out your book of fairy tales.  We are going to take you on a magic journey with the Brothers Grimm.  Our first stop is Hanau, just a short trip from Frankfurt. The old town square of Hanau boasts a monument to the Grimm brothers.  We picked a Saturday morning when the market was bustling with people.  We circled around for about twenty minutes and finally decided we were wasting valuable time, so we plugged into our GPS the Grimm Museum and started off, not realizing it was taking us to another city; we carried on anyway.  The brothers were born in Hanau.  We will have a chance to visit it again.


You have to know a little about the Brothers Grimm to appreciate the flavor they put into their collection of stories.  I have included a little background from other sources:

" Their early childhood was spent in the countryside in what has been described as an "idyllic" state.  When the eldest brother, Jacob, was eleven years old, their father, Philip Wilhelm, died and the family moved into a cramped urban residence.  Two years later, the children's grandfather also died, leaving them and their mother to struggle in reduced circumstances.  It has been argued that this is the reason behind the Brothers' tendency to idealize and excuse fathers, leaving a predominance of female villains in the tales—the infamous wicked stepmothers, for example, the evil stepmother and stepsisters in “Cinderella.”  However, this opinion, ignores the fact that the brothers were collectors of folk tales, not their authors."  

Alsfeld  was our next stop and it has to be the most picturesque town we have seen to-date.  Around every corner  was a street full of timber-frame houses with dates like 1504, 1525.  It was like being back in the sixteenth century.  The Rauthaus  was worth the trip alone.   The pharmacy across the street has operated as such for several centuries.  How is that for a local drug store.   The narrow cobble stone streets, with these two and three story houses still occupied with families carrying on their daily activities, reminds us of how in many ways, time has not changed the routines of life.


On one street, there is a fountain presided over by a goose girl in a costume of the period which was noticed by the Grimm brothers and inspired them as to how to describe Little Red Riding Hood.  As we took our walking tour, I wondered what it would be like to be surrounded by this history.  Houses that have been continuously occupied for hundreds of years.  Most bottom floors now house quaint shops appealing to residents and      tourists alike.

We had to hurry to stay on schedule so we were off to Kassel, a city of 200,000, about two hours from Frankfurt.  This city promised to provide a varied array of architecture, art, folklore and Greek artifacts.  The highlight had to be the Museum of Art.  The huge museum housed what has to be the finest collection of art in Germany.  The city had many museums, one of which was the oldest museum in Europe.  We saw the works of many masters including Rubins and Rembrandt, with the prize of the collection, one of his masterpieces, depicting Israel blessing Ephraim over the birthright son Manasseh.  The first floor was Greek art and artifacts, the second housed the works of Italian masters, the third Dutch artists and finally the fourth, many of the most famous artists, including Rubins and Rembrandt.  After Versailles, it is the best collection in Europe.

We spent two hours on the Park surrounding the museum site.  With the leaves in full colour and 868 acres to explore I was game to go, Arendje not so much, so I hiked up this steep slope to see an old castle called Lowenburg.  It is unique, as you will see by the previous link.  The Landgrave also built the  museum as his personal residence.  He was a true romantic and his designs for the park, castle,  water falls, numerous gazebos, green houses and the capstone a huge statue of a Hercules on top of a ridge.  I hiked to the top, without Arendje.  She preferred to stay below and cheer me on.  Most went up by bus via a park road.  In the summer time, it must be pretty spectacular as they have cascading falls come all the way down the front .

This last picture was a two kilometer hike down from the Hercules statue.  The trees in the park contained many that were two hundred years old or more. There were some majestic oaks, elms, fir, cedar and maples. the colour and pungent odor of fall in the air made it a very pleasant way to spend a Sunday afternoon.

Wurzburg - Of Celtic origins

The Romantic Road is what inspired us to consider a trip to Wurzburg . The more we researched the city however, the more we realized it warranted a visit all on its own.

Wurzburg goes back to Celtic times around 1000 BC. The fortress refuge on the hill served as sanctuary during times of war for the early Celts. Wurzburg in the northern most city of Bavaria. These people refer to themselves as Franconians and maintain their unique folklore and cultural traditions. The city gained its renown around the 7th century with its first bishop, St. Burchard. In subsequent centuries Prince Bishops, so named because investiture of titles increased their wealth and influence, when they granted favors and allowances to well-to-do nobility. The palace above is an example of one such Prince Bishop's wealth; he built this magnificent Wurzburg Residence. In addition to the splendid architectural features (Balthasar Neumann, architect] it contains what is said to be, one of the largest fresco's ever produced.

A Venetian artist, G.B. Tiepoli left Venice only twice. Once was at the bidding of this wealthy Prince Bishop and he painted a 6400 sq. ft depiction of the four continents known at the time, on this self- supported vaulted ceiling. The entire palace was built from 1720-1744 and represents once of the best examples of Baroque architecture of the time.

We went from church to church. Each one representing a different time period. It was a Saturday so the market in the town square was bustling with people. [Allan hustled me out quickly and without time to spend any money.]

Wurburg is a university town, so it is full of young people, adding to the energy and vitality of this happening place. The university was established in 1585. This building is classic renaissance style and constitutes the theological college and assembly hall. Here was where X-rays were first utilized and it is the home of 13 Nobel Prize winners.

All of Bavaria holds promise for future visits. Nestled away along the Romantic Road are quaint little towns with a flavor and feeling unique to Bavaria and its colorful people. They love their festivals. May through June is packed full of interesting events and exhibits. They all require two and three day time span to fully appreciate. that will have to wait till spring. In the meantime, we will stay closer to Frankfurt.

Schloss Hotel Kronberg

When intelligent money meets the history of royalty, we acquire a collection of art, architecture, fine craftsmanship and the splendor of a magnificient structure maintained close to its original state. Tucked away in a beautiful pastoral setting is the Schloss Hotel. Built in 1889-1894 this palace near Kronberg was the creation of Empress Friedrich, (Victoria). She married Friedrich III, later to become King of Prussia and German Emperor, more commonly known as Kaiser.

Victoria was the eldest daughter of Queen Victoria born in 1840 at Buckingham Palace. The couple became engaged in 1855 while Frederick was on a visit to Balmoral. Victoria was just fourteen, while her future husband was a young man of twenty-four. The marriage was both a love match and a dynastic alliance. The Queen and Prince Albert hoped that Victoria's marriage to the future King of Prussia would cement close ties between London and Berlin, and possibly lead to the emergence of a unified and liberal Germany. At the time of their wedding, Londoners chanted "God save the Prince and Bride! God keep their lands allied!"

When Friedrich finally came to the throne, he reigned for only 99 days. Victoria, had the castle built in memory of her late husband in the hills near Kronberg, not far from Frankfurt. As a talented and gifted artist in her own right, she was a patron of the arts and learning, She surrounded herself with beautiful tapestries, fine china and porcelain, classic works of English literature and sufficient of her own sketches and artwork to belie the creative intelligence of this gifted lady.




Throughout her married life and widowhood, Victoria kept in close touch with other members of the British Roayal Family, particularly her younger brother, the future King Edward VII. She maintained a regular correspondence with her mother. According to the Royal Encyclopedia, some 3,777 letters from Queen Victoria to her eldest daughter have been catalogued, as well as more than 4,000 from daughter to mother. Many of her letters detailed her concern over Germany's future under her son. Victoria was diagnosed with inoperable breast cancer in 1899 while visting her mother at Balmoral. She suffered excruciating pain during her last years. In the fall of 1900, she died in her German estate. The Germans of Kronberg had become very fond of her, albeit she could still not speak their language after many years in Germany.

Bad Homburg and the castle

Bad Homburg is about 15 minute drive from Frankfurt. It purports to be the wealthiest city in Germany, due in part to the financiers of Frankfurt who reside here. Over the last couple of centuries it has been a favorite summer residence of royalty. There are apparently 8 mineral springs located in and around the area which have attracted the likes of King Edward, Dostoyevsky, German emperors and numerous others. The mineral springs are particularly acclaimed for their health generating waters. The arts are also given their due attention, with regular classical concerts and art exhibits.

The city's origins go back to the 12th century, having gained favor, in addition to its mineral springs, for a picturesque setting. It wasn't until the 19th century that Bad Homburg took on special significance however, with the construction of a royal palace and a beautiful garden which encompasses it.

After touring the grounds, the baroque style gates and the exterior of the complex with the keep dominating the central court, we decidedto take a guided tour (in German unfortunately) of the royal suites and were treated to a display of furnishings of the finest craftsmanship available at the time. I do not have pictures available as photos were not allowed. Trust me on this - it was impressive. I was particularly impressed with the inlaid wood carvings that made up much of the furnishings in the rooms. Rooms were generally spacious with ceilings of 12 feet or more. In addition, there were almost life size paintings of members of the royal family and important guests throughout the residence. Although one could hardly describe their accommodations as spartan, for all the amenities of their time were there, it still had much to be desired. I will stick with the 21st Century, thanks!

On a personal note, we are beginning to feel grounded in this beautiful country. We just purchased a GPS, a much needed accessory. The work is starting to feel manageable and my stress levels have subsided as a consequence. I have approximately 95 missionaries I am working with to varying degrees out of a pool of 4,000. The missionary work schedule, the demands of an additional language, a foreign culture, being away from home and living 24/7 with someone who may be quite different from them all, imposes stressful challenges to some. I do however, enjoy working with them very much. They appreciate the help I provide and seem to enjoy the personal attention directed their way. The working arrangements are excellent, the resources are first class and I work with a team of very competent individuals. Arendje is becoming familiar with the support she is able to provide and I value her time and willingness to work so closely with me even in my somewhat scattered state. We take our Saturdays to recoup and regroup. In summary, the work is very rewarding and the setting, in the heart of Germany, could not be more ideal.

Cruising the Rhine: from Koblenz to Boppard

We almost got our self royally lost, but luck was with us and we made a few fortunate turns and found our way to our intended destinations. There is a confusing array of autobahns here and without a GPS, getting to where you want to go is hit and miss. That will be our next big purchase. This week we settled on a Saturday venture to Koblenz, with the intent of taking another Rhine cruise, this time heading south, to see more of the sights from the vantage point of a boat.

Koblenz, from the Latin "at the merging" of two rivers, in this case the Rhine and Mosel, is strategically located and became the focal point from which various forces either rallied or established fortifications to defend against invading armies. A fortress city since the time of the Romans, first under Juluis Ceaser, and a few years later under Drusus. A bridge was built about 49 AD, parts of which are still visible. For centuries thereafter, a host of would-be conquerors, including the Franks under Charlemagne, took control of this region. The town was sacked and destroyed by the Normans 892. Thereafter, the French, Swedes and various ecclesiastical leaders, under the auspices of the Holy Roman Empire, controlled the city and surrounding area.
I certainly wanted to see the fortress but we were pressed for time and opted for the cruise instead--perhaps for another time. Our cruise took us from Koblenz to Boppard and back, a total of three hours. Just Arendje and I took on this trip. The first castle was Schloss Stolzenfels. This castle defines the artistry of the romantic period. The chapel is resplendent. Our pictures included a shroud around a portion so I included these to give a visual sense of this gem of the Rhine.

Along the way we saw a number of small communities, some with only a few houses and others with quite an enclave of residences with their church dominating the landscape of the quiet but picturesque villages. The adjacent hills on the east side of the river are covered in well tended rows of grape ines. Hardly a spot was bare.

Over the town of Braubach is the castle of Marksburg. It is the only medieval castle of the Middle Rhine that has never been destroyed and is also one of the principal sites of the Unesco Rhine Gorge. The castle was built to protect the town of Braubach and to reinforce the customs facilities. It was built about 1117. In 1283 a Count Eberhard bought it and through the 14th and 15th century, the high noble counts rebuilt the castle constantly.

I realize I need to learn so much more about the architecture, art and history of the areas in order to better appreciate the elements that shaped the cultural heritage of the people. This part of Europe appears to have been at the center of ongoing clashes in bygone eras, much like the Middle East is today. This is one of the reasons it is so fascinating. The tough, proud demeanor of the German psyche must have been shaped in part at least by the turbulent interchanges with other peoples over the centuries.

Trier

From the first time I heard of this place I wanted to go visit it. Trier lies near the border with Luxemburg in the beautiful Mosel Valley. We left Frankfurt on a gorgeous Saturday morning to head west for approximately two hours soaking in the beautiful German landscape. As we arrived in Trier we knew we were not the only people interested in this place, judging by the entourage of tour buses that preceeded us. Once we got our bearings, we went to the tourist information center adjacent to a magnificent Roman ruin known as Porta Nigra. This represents the last of four gates that with its impressive walls four miles in length which encompassed a city of 80,000 people. The city was founded in 17 B.C. by Augustus and continued to be occupied by the Romans as one of their capitals for 400 years. For nearly three centuries, the Emperors of Rome made this their primary residence and staging point for the conquest of the troublesome Germanic tribes.

At the same time as St Peters Basicillica was being contructed in Rome, a comparable church also called St. Peters was under construction in Trier. The dimensions of this church were enormous. It was designed to accommodate 8000 people and encompassed several city blocks. Only a small portion still remains to which additions were added in the 4th, 12th and 17th centuries. Up until the 3rd century, Christians were persecuted. Under an edict from Constantine, at the bequest of his mother-i-law, the persecution stopped and Christianity started to take hold. This is the oldest church in Germany.

Interesting archeological findings have estalished the use of baptismal fonts where baptisms took place by immersion. Powerful bishops took it upon themselves to relinquish the need for immersion, adopting the much simpler practice of sprinkling with water. Ancient relics from the 3rd century are kept in this church and pilgramages occur every decade or so when visitors from all over the world come to view them.

This city has gone to considerable expense to maintain the historical landmarks. Although the walls are gone, their materials were used for centuries to construct other structures.

In the 3rd century, elaborate Roman baths were constructed with a labyrinth of tunnels and excavations to accommodate the voluminous amounts of water required to feed the hot, warm and cool pools in the complex. No geothermal energy here! All water was heated by a series of wood burning furnaces maintained by slaves under what must have been oppressive conditions. The construction, design and shear proportions of the baths testified to the ingenuity and wealth of the Roman occupants. Ironically, the baths were never used. Upon completion the reigning emperor decided to return to Rome, leaving the baths untested.

An interesting story surrounds the rivalry that existed between a powerful archbishop who later occupied the city as spirtual leader, political powerhouse and its most affluent citizen and the upstart Protestant Church. Two churches and their respective congregations made for somewhat friendly challenges utilizing design features on their churchs as symbols of their competitive positions as each vied for dominance. I will leave that story to be told elsewhere.

We concluded our day in a vibrant marketplace, taking in sights and sounds of the bustling city center. An assortment of entertainment was always within sight or earshot. We had a brass band serenading the tourists and shoppers and mimes amusing us with their antics. The aroma of German cuisine finally got the better of us and we indulged ourselves with some local fare to top a great day.

Hesse Park

This past Saturday we went to Hesse Park This is a 160 acre site devoted to retaining the rural history of this area of Germany. Over a hundred houses have been dismantled from various sites in the area and transported to this location and restored to their original condition. There is a church dating from 1480 to an assortment of farm houses from the 15th to the 20th century. There are another 100 houses in storage ready to be reconstructed. This is an expensive process to which they appear totally committed.




This picture is in the town square before entering the park.

It was not an easy life. They build thatch roofs with no chimmnies. The smoke from their fireplaces would just be allowed to permeate through and up to the attic where they would cure their meats. Consequently, the houses were referred to as smoke houses. Families with 7 to 10 children would live under these smoky conditions, not realizing the health hazards. Average life span was about 42 years; understandable under the circumstances.

Rudesheim - s short jaunt from Frankfurt

Frankfurt retains much of its rich historical heritage while embracing the amenities and conveniences of the 21st century. I understand it is the only city with a well defined skyline. Most German cities restrict construction heights that represented by the the "Rathhaus", (townhall). Love that name!

When construction is started and an excavator comes across any sign of past relics, construction is halted and a dig commences, sometimes resulting in signifcant delays. To their credit, the Germans have done much to retain the vestiges of bygone eras.

On Friday September 11th, we went to Rudesheim, about 45 minutes south of Frankfurt on the Rhine River. For 22 Euros we took a tram up the side of a grapevine covered hill to hike along a ridge overlooking the Rhine River valley and the picturesque villages, fortresses and castles that dot the riverside. It was a gorgeous day. The views were spectacular, the sun was shining with the hint of fall in the air. From there we proceeded down from the ridge via a chair lift and returned by boat up the Rhine to our starting point. This is the only way to get a first hand view of the magnificient castles and fortresses hanging precipitously on rock faces above the river bed.

We concluded the trip with a traditional German meal in the quaint of town of Rudesheim. The setting, the food and the ambiance topped off what turned out to be a delightful day. I asked Dr. Collingridge (the man I am replacing and our guide) how many places within 45 minutes of Frankfurt would match this. He said. "probably 100". As we ended our day he shared gems of information about the area, the people and what he could about the history. Much to learn and more to do. It looks like great fun!