Sunday, November 15, 2009

Felsenmeer [the sea of rocks]


We went off the beaten track to find this place.  What you see is referred to as a felsenmeer.  We use this word in English (although it comes from German) to refer to an outcropping of rocks often found near the tree line on a gentle slope.  These have been polished by glaciation and weathering and were broken up by constant freezing and thawing of water seeping into the rock face.  We actually came to this place to see an ancient quarry used by the Romans since about 200 AD.  Scattering amongst this rock debris are signs of stone mason's handiwork strewn over the hillside.  To see the whole site required a rigorous hike.  I was up for the it.  I continued on in search of other signs of stonework deemed not suitable for transport off the site.  I found this one near to the top of the ridge.  After looking at this I decided I wouldn't want to haul it down either.  This one was made in the 4th century. It is 30.8 feet long and weighs 27.5 tons.  This was miles from anywhere and now so was I.  I began to feel guilty as Arendje was waiting for me two or three kilometers below.  The stone masons must have known what they were looking for, as what I thought  were excellent pieces of granite were abandoned, obviously flawed in some way.  
At the Information Centre at Felsenmeer, we spoke with the patrons and they told us some places to see nearby.  The highlight was a place called Heppenheim to see the old Rathaus.  This is the heart of wine country.  The square was empty when we arrived, unusual for a Saturday afternoon.  Of course it is November and the tourists are long gone.  I was able to take this unobstructed picture, which is a rare shot.  This beautiful medieval city was enchanting with its 17th and 18th century wood frame houses.  Some were quite a bit older.  We went to visit a 19th century Catholic church which had an excellent collection of stain glassed windows.  I think the Catholic Church should give us an honorary membership as we are devoted attendees in every community we visit.  We did not stay very long here however, as we had a couple of other places to see and by this time we had both worked up quite an appetite.
       This warranted a picture.  It was outdoor train set with a collection of old style fire hydrants.  I was not sure what the connection was, but it made for an interesting stop.  The church is right behind me in the background.  If I were to live in Germany, it would be in a town very similar to this.  I must be a romantic at heart.  We both seem to enjoy our Saturday jaunts. Certainly some things are beginning to reflect elements familiar to previous sites, yet it seems to capture enough of the history to give it an enduring appeal.  If you look carefully at the half timbered house, on the lower right it shows a bombed out portion, as was the lot for much of Germany in the last days of the Second World War.


    Auerbach Fortress   was constructed in the 13th century and there is folklore (Gina for you) attached to this site.  It was built to protect the property of the very powerful and rich monastery Lorsch.  This fortress has two walls.  The outer constitutes  a defensive perimeter.  Once past the first, there was still a stronger and bigger inner wall to negotiate.  It was impressive as well, in that it occupied the summit of the largest hill in the region.  The view was a full 360 degrees especially from the vantage point of the uppermost guard tower which we both climbed.    You can see it in this picture.                                                                                     
This last picture of a pine tree growing right in the walkway of highest part of the fortress.  On 18 October 1356, a huge earthquake shook the Rhine Rift. The donjon (central tower) collapsed, and crashed onto the eastern and southeastern buildings. In they years thereafter,  a period of rebuilding and expansion took place.  In place of the east-tower a bastion, an approximately four meters thick quarter-circle shaped wall construction was built. The bastion, the first facility of its kind in Germany, was to protect the castle from stone cannons from the northeast. Probably the north- and south-tower were also raised. We climbed the north tower, right behind where this picture was taken. In the eastern corner of the inner courtyard of the castle the former well is recognizable, which was hewn 62 meters deep in the rock

3 comments:

  1. Cool train track! And I love the tree growing in the walkway. Makes for a great picture.

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  2. I love reading about all the neat sites and history. What an awesome experience for you and Sister Whidden.

    Love, Koe

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  3. We never did anything like this before. Fortunately we both share the same interest. Arendje is game for just about anything I suggest except for the long hikes up the hills.

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