Sunday, May 9, 2010

Saalburg - Roman Fort & Braunfels



Karte des Limes
Saalburg is the only one of a series of Old Roman forts built along the northern frontier of the Roman Empire which has undergone a total reconstruction.  The forts were constructed during the first century and later abandoned around 260 A.D.  Along with walls and watchtowers, they  represented a line (limes) of demarcation of the Empire extending over 550 kilometers.


We had the benefit of a guided tour in English.   An archeologist shared the highlights of a day in the life of an auxiliary soldier.  As a consequence of extensive excavations, they have been able to piece together a basic understanding of what life was like nearly 2000 years ago.  The Romans introduced practices and advances which were subsequently lost during the dark ages.  The soldiers were not actually native Roman citizens, but rather auxiliary soldiers recruited from the ranks of the local population.  In time they were offered honorary citizenship with particular rights accorded them including a pension, marriage and ability to buy property. 




Life was not so good on the other side of the Limes.  Germans who ventured too close to the line and began farming or constructing houses were harassed by the soldiers.  A record in the Roman annals is told of two disgruntled citizens who embarked to Rome and appealed to Nero for the right to build near the line. " In the interval of waiting for Nero, who had other cares to occupy him, they visited the usual places shown to barbarians, and among them the theatre of Pompey, where they were to contemplate the size of the population.  There, to kill time (they had not sufficient knowledge to be amused by the play), they were asking questions about the crowd seated in the auditorium — the distinctions between the orders — which were the knights? — where was the senate? — when they noticed a few men in foreign dress on the senatorial seats.  They inquired who they were, and, on hearing that this was a compliment paid to the envoys of nations distinguished for their courage and for friendship to Rome, exclaimed that no people in the world ranked before Germans in arms or loyalty, went down, and took their seats among the Fathers.  The action was taken in good part by the onlookers, as a trait of primitive impetuosity and generous rivalry. Nero presented both with the Roman citizenship, and instructed the Frisians to leave the district. As they ignored the order, compulsion was applied by the unexpected dispatch of a body of auxiliary horse, which captured or killed the more obstinate of those who resisted."


Although this place was interesting and worth a visit 
there was not much to take pictures of nor did it require more than a couple hours to meander through.

To make the most of our day we headed to Braunfels, a castle recommended by Elfi (mentioned in earlier blogs).  She said it is reminiscent of a Sleeping Beauty Castle and it was only fifteen minutes from Saalburg.


The drive to the location was as pleasant an outing as one could wish for.  The day was sunny, the countryside resplendent with the fresh greenery of spring and the company was good, consisting of all the staff on the medical floor. 




German forethought and planning are evident in the allocation and distribution of land.  Villages dot the countryside but in such a way as to provide large tracts of green belts.  There are no farm houses as in the US and Canada.  Owners of the properties live in nearby towns and villages, leaving a very pastoral scene unencumbered by farm houses or residences. Interspersed between nearly every field are belts of forest.  This mix of fields, forest and picturesque town sites make for a visually appealing layout.  The eyes are constantly presented with a changing vista. 


In the town site, surrounding the castle, we had lunch in  what must have been a 500 year old dwelling, with wood carvings and medieval artwork decor.  The 'oldstadt' tucked on the steep environs required some ingenious structural engineering to accommodate the town folk nestled under the protective shadow of the castle. 


Our cameras were constantly at the ready as every
corner provided another eye catching scene.  The half
timbered houses, the cobblestone streets, the quaint shops and the imposing presence of the castle could easily capture your imagination as not only a place to visit but as a place to live.  Perhaps the romantic appeal would diminish over time.  It beckons one to times and lifestyles long since past but maintains the charm of bygone eras. 


These last two pictures reflect the more idyllic aspects of our time here.  We are relishing the moments, as the smiles do indicate.







No comments:

Post a Comment