Sunday, April 11, 2010

Outpost Alpha and the Fulda Gap

The stark reality of the Cold War  was brought home for  us on our visit to OP Alpha, a critical buffer between east and west for over forty years.  This remote outpost was strategically located in what is referred to as the Fulda Gap. It was here, along the border that divided East and West Germany, that was deemed the most probable axis of Soviet attack. The Gap refers to a corridor of lowlands which is suitable for operations by large-scaled armored forces.  This would give the Eastern block  ready access to Germany's heartland and Frankfurt, the financial center of Europe.  From the vantage point of the lookout tower, we could see across to similarly positioned East German lookout.  This site is now a museum due to the efforts of citizens and supportive historical groups.  The museum recounts and memorializes this important period in world history.  I have included one commanding officers journal entries as a reminder of the events and precipitous relations between east and west.  Across the former line is another museum depicting the Cold War period from the Soviet perspective.

We visited Fulda which offered more than just a military base of Allied operations.  Rich in history, founded in 742 under the benevolent tutilage of  Boniface who later became the patron saint of Germany. He was largely responsible for Christianizing north and east of the old Roman Empire borders.  The legend of the felling of Thor's Oak marks transition from paganism to Christianity.  The city has acquired status as a "Baroque City".  The statue on the right being a good example of Baroque sculpture.  Throughout most of the eighteenth century the city corps went through extensive renovations including the cathedral which was entirely redone in baroque style on the interior.   It is odd to see a Romanesque church on the outside and the interior representative of 600 years later.  The work is never the less magnificent and gives a good picture of that flamboyant period.


We stopped for lunch at a self-serve bakery and while preparing to eat, I turned around and there at the door was an elephant, his trunk obviously enjoying the aroma coming from the facility.
I could have reached over and touched it.  He stayed there for
10 or 15 seconds and slowly continued on along the car free
section of the city core.  He was not tied in any way.  Someone
was taking him on a leisurely walk to go shopping.  Quite odd!

We decided to take in one more museum of the local palace.  Here, like many other places, the the clergy held dual role as both ecclesiastical and political authority so they live in palatial residences and enjoyed all the privileges attached to nobility until Napoleon came along and stopped the practice.  Although it is a feast for the eyes to see the pomp and splendor of these residences, it still leaves a bitter reminder of the disparity that existed between the ruling classes and the local peasantry.

On the streets, one of the first signs of the summer season is the town squares crowded with people with various forms of entertainment heralding the crowds of tourists and shoppers alike.  This will be a welcome addition to the regular sights and sounds of Germany.

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