Holland in Two Days!!

Our first stop was Eethen, a small village in south east Holland, where Arendje was born.  We didn`t stop long but went on the Genderen, a small village where the Walraven`s had a farm and sold feed to other farmers for their animals.  The farm house is still there although it is hard to recognize because it has been painted white; it hasn`t been lived in for 34 years but is used as a business.  Genderen is a very small village - immaculately clean and picturesque.





The house used to be a brown brick but is now white and the windows are much bigger than they used to be.


Next we were on to Rotterdam to pick up our `Holland Pass` - tickets we bought for the events we wanted to see.  We were too late to take a harbour cruise so we drove to Kinderdijk.  Here we see 19 old windmills built in the 1740`s to drain the water off the farm land.  The windmills are still standing although not used for the same purpose - except for 2 which have been mechanized.  Very authentic!

We spent the night at Alan Jenks and Jen Walraven`s house.  She was very gracious and we enjoyed visiting with her and her husband and meeting their cute little red-haired girl Kylee.  Kylee is 17 months old and she was born in Holland.  They came to Holland to set up a chiropractic practice.  The visit made me homesick for my grandkids.

Early Saturday morning we were on the way to Keukenhof to see the flower gardens.  We managed to beat most of the crowds and even the men thought the stop was worthwhile.  By the time we left at around 11:00, the people were starting to be wall-to-wall and as we drove away, we passed at least 5 miles of traffic trying to get to the site - many, many tour buses and private vehicles full of people on their way to see the tulips, daffodils and hyacinths.

The gardens plant more than 7 million bulbs every year, is open for 2 months and is the most photographed garden in the world.  These are some of the pictures we were able to take:  

We drove to Amsterdam next - although we didn`t spend a lot of time there - we did do a canal cruise around the harbor viewing the 17th century buildings which were mostly warehouses but have been converted to condos - very narrow but high.  Most have a pulley system hanging from the top floor to move furniture in and out since the stairs are too narrow.


We also toured the Rijks Museum which holds many masters pieces by Rembrandt and Reuben.  The museum is just the right size - two floor - and it is easy to enjoy the magnificent pieces hanging there.

Idar-Oberstein - The Gemstone Capital

German entrepreneurial spirit and competitive zeal has found fascinating expression in the art and craft of the gem industry.  For more than five centuries craftsmen have plied their artistic talent and finely tuned skills in cutting, shaping and polishing agates, jasper and precious gems.  During the first few centuries, local mines provided ample supply of agates and jasper.  As local resources dwindled, German emigrants travelling to far flung countries and(particularly Brazil) started to collect precious stones and bring them back to Germany.  Here in Idar- Oberstein,  factories began to specialize, each developing sets of skills designed to enhance the quality, value and appearance of the stone and gems they worked with. Idar-Oberstein is referred to as the 'gemstone' capital of Germany and has a world wide reputation as a cutting center for all types of gems; only Antwerp exceeds it in reputation as the diamond cutting center of the world.  I purchased a set of blue-dyed agate bookends [only 20 euros].

The Edelsteinmuseum provides a unique glimpse  into this fascinating world.  Gems from all over the world, with spectacular samples of amethyst, opal, jasper, precious gems of every type, crystalline formations and carvings displayed the creative and artistic ability of the local craftsmen on three floors.  We were treated to a guided tour of the museum with over 9000 exhibits of incalculable value.  The displays were spectacular but more than that, the museum pays tribute to the agate cutters, hollow cutters, facetteurs, lapidaries, diamond cutters and especially the outstanding works of local gemstone engravers and goldsmiths.  This is certainly
a diversion from the normal tourist fare, but nevertheless, an engaging way to spend quality holiday time.

Although was much to see in Idar-Oberstein a change of scenery seemed in order so we headed a half hour down the road to the picturesque town of Bernkastel on the Mosel River.  It was a beautiful spring day and this little town came highly recommended.  True to form, the city was a mix of old and new spanning both sides of the beautiful Mosel River.  The old part of town was full of eye-catching half timbered houses, quaint shops and narrow cobblestone streets referred to as "gasse".  Here vehicles were prohibited as they probably couldn't navigate the streets anyway.  We  spent a leisurely Saturday afternoon taking in the sights and sounds along the river.  We drove up to the ruins of an old fortress and from this prominent vantage point, we could see up and down the Mosel.  This is prime vineyard country and all the steep hills were covered in vines. Undoubtedly a pretty site in full bloom.

Outpost Alpha and the Fulda Gap

The stark reality of the Cold War  was brought home for  us on our visit to OP Alpha, a critical buffer between east and west for over forty years.  This remote outpost was strategically located in what is referred to as the Fulda Gap. It was here, along the border that divided East and West Germany, that was deemed the most probable axis of Soviet attack. The Gap refers to a corridor of lowlands which is suitable for operations by large-scaled armored forces.  This would give the Eastern block  ready access to Germany's heartland and Frankfurt, the financial center of Europe.  From the vantage point of the lookout tower, we could see across to similarly positioned East German lookout.  This site is now a museum due to the efforts of citizens and supportive historical groups.  The museum recounts and memorializes this important period in world history.  I have included one commanding officers journal entries as a reminder of the events and precipitous relations between east and west.  Across the former line is another museum depicting the Cold War period from the Soviet perspective.

We visited Fulda which offered more than just a military base of Allied operations.  Rich in history, founded in 742 under the benevolent tutilage of  Boniface who later became the patron saint of Germany. He was largely responsible for Christianizing north and east of the old Roman Empire borders.  The legend of the felling of Thor's Oak marks transition from paganism to Christianity.  The city has acquired status as a "Baroque City".  The statue on the right being a good example of Baroque sculpture.  Throughout most of the eighteenth century the city corps went through extensive renovations including the cathedral which was entirely redone in baroque style on the interior.   It is odd to see a Romanesque church on the outside and the interior representative of 600 years later.  The work is never the less magnificent and gives a good picture of that flamboyant period.


We stopped for lunch at a self-serve bakery and while preparing to eat, I turned around and there at the door was an elephant, his trunk obviously enjoying the aroma coming from the facility.
I could have reached over and touched it.  He stayed there for
10 or 15 seconds and slowly continued on along the car free
section of the city core.  He was not tied in any way.  Someone
was taking him on a leisurely walk to go shopping.  Quite odd!

We decided to take in one more museum of the local palace.  Here, like many other places, the the clergy held dual role as both ecclesiastical and political authority so they live in palatial residences and enjoyed all the privileges attached to nobility until Napoleon came along and stopped the practice.  Although it is a feast for the eyes to see the pomp and splendor of these residences, it still leaves a bitter reminder of the disparity that existed between the ruling classes and the local peasantry.

On the streets, one of the first signs of the summer season is the town squares crowded with people with various forms of entertainment heralding the crowds of tourists and shoppers alike.  This will be a welcome addition to the regular sights and sounds of Germany.