Wurzburg - Of Celtic origins

The Romantic Road is what inspired us to consider a trip to Wurzburg . The more we researched the city however, the more we realized it warranted a visit all on its own.

Wurzburg goes back to Celtic times around 1000 BC. The fortress refuge on the hill served as sanctuary during times of war for the early Celts. Wurzburg in the northern most city of Bavaria. These people refer to themselves as Franconians and maintain their unique folklore and cultural traditions. The city gained its renown around the 7th century with its first bishop, St. Burchard. In subsequent centuries Prince Bishops, so named because investiture of titles increased their wealth and influence, when they granted favors and allowances to well-to-do nobility. The palace above is an example of one such Prince Bishop's wealth; he built this magnificent Wurzburg Residence. In addition to the splendid architectural features (Balthasar Neumann, architect] it contains what is said to be, one of the largest fresco's ever produced.

A Venetian artist, G.B. Tiepoli left Venice only twice. Once was at the bidding of this wealthy Prince Bishop and he painted a 6400 sq. ft depiction of the four continents known at the time, on this self- supported vaulted ceiling. The entire palace was built from 1720-1744 and represents once of the best examples of Baroque architecture of the time.

We went from church to church. Each one representing a different time period. It was a Saturday so the market in the town square was bustling with people. [Allan hustled me out quickly and without time to spend any money.]

Wurburg is a university town, so it is full of young people, adding to the energy and vitality of this happening place. The university was established in 1585. This building is classic renaissance style and constitutes the theological college and assembly hall. Here was where X-rays were first utilized and it is the home of 13 Nobel Prize winners.

All of Bavaria holds promise for future visits. Nestled away along the Romantic Road are quaint little towns with a flavor and feeling unique to Bavaria and its colorful people. They love their festivals. May through June is packed full of interesting events and exhibits. They all require two and three day time span to fully appreciate. that will have to wait till spring. In the meantime, we will stay closer to Frankfurt.

Schloss Hotel Kronberg

When intelligent money meets the history of royalty, we acquire a collection of art, architecture, fine craftsmanship and the splendor of a magnificient structure maintained close to its original state. Tucked away in a beautiful pastoral setting is the Schloss Hotel. Built in 1889-1894 this palace near Kronberg was the creation of Empress Friedrich, (Victoria). She married Friedrich III, later to become King of Prussia and German Emperor, more commonly known as Kaiser.

Victoria was the eldest daughter of Queen Victoria born in 1840 at Buckingham Palace. The couple became engaged in 1855 while Frederick was on a visit to Balmoral. Victoria was just fourteen, while her future husband was a young man of twenty-four. The marriage was both a love match and a dynastic alliance. The Queen and Prince Albert hoped that Victoria's marriage to the future King of Prussia would cement close ties between London and Berlin, and possibly lead to the emergence of a unified and liberal Germany. At the time of their wedding, Londoners chanted "God save the Prince and Bride! God keep their lands allied!"

When Friedrich finally came to the throne, he reigned for only 99 days. Victoria, had the castle built in memory of her late husband in the hills near Kronberg, not far from Frankfurt. As a talented and gifted artist in her own right, she was a patron of the arts and learning, She surrounded herself with beautiful tapestries, fine china and porcelain, classic works of English literature and sufficient of her own sketches and artwork to belie the creative intelligence of this gifted lady.




Throughout her married life and widowhood, Victoria kept in close touch with other members of the British Roayal Family, particularly her younger brother, the future King Edward VII. She maintained a regular correspondence with her mother. According to the Royal Encyclopedia, some 3,777 letters from Queen Victoria to her eldest daughter have been catalogued, as well as more than 4,000 from daughter to mother. Many of her letters detailed her concern over Germany's future under her son. Victoria was diagnosed with inoperable breast cancer in 1899 while visting her mother at Balmoral. She suffered excruciating pain during her last years. In the fall of 1900, she died in her German estate. The Germans of Kronberg had become very fond of her, albeit she could still not speak their language after many years in Germany.

Bad Homburg and the castle

Bad Homburg is about 15 minute drive from Frankfurt. It purports to be the wealthiest city in Germany, due in part to the financiers of Frankfurt who reside here. Over the last couple of centuries it has been a favorite summer residence of royalty. There are apparently 8 mineral springs located in and around the area which have attracted the likes of King Edward, Dostoyevsky, German emperors and numerous others. The mineral springs are particularly acclaimed for their health generating waters. The arts are also given their due attention, with regular classical concerts and art exhibits.

The city's origins go back to the 12th century, having gained favor, in addition to its mineral springs, for a picturesque setting. It wasn't until the 19th century that Bad Homburg took on special significance however, with the construction of a royal palace and a beautiful garden which encompasses it.

After touring the grounds, the baroque style gates and the exterior of the complex with the keep dominating the central court, we decidedto take a guided tour (in German unfortunately) of the royal suites and were treated to a display of furnishings of the finest craftsmanship available at the time. I do not have pictures available as photos were not allowed. Trust me on this - it was impressive. I was particularly impressed with the inlaid wood carvings that made up much of the furnishings in the rooms. Rooms were generally spacious with ceilings of 12 feet or more. In addition, there were almost life size paintings of members of the royal family and important guests throughout the residence. Although one could hardly describe their accommodations as spartan, for all the amenities of their time were there, it still had much to be desired. I will stick with the 21st Century, thanks!

On a personal note, we are beginning to feel grounded in this beautiful country. We just purchased a GPS, a much needed accessory. The work is starting to feel manageable and my stress levels have subsided as a consequence. I have approximately 95 missionaries I am working with to varying degrees out of a pool of 4,000. The missionary work schedule, the demands of an additional language, a foreign culture, being away from home and living 24/7 with someone who may be quite different from them all, imposes stressful challenges to some. I do however, enjoy working with them very much. They appreciate the help I provide and seem to enjoy the personal attention directed their way. The working arrangements are excellent, the resources are first class and I work with a team of very competent individuals. Arendje is becoming familiar with the support she is able to provide and I value her time and willingness to work so closely with me even in my somewhat scattered state. We take our Saturdays to recoup and regroup. In summary, the work is very rewarding and the setting, in the heart of Germany, could not be more ideal.

Cruising the Rhine: from Koblenz to Boppard

We almost got our self royally lost, but luck was with us and we made a few fortunate turns and found our way to our intended destinations. There is a confusing array of autobahns here and without a GPS, getting to where you want to go is hit and miss. That will be our next big purchase. This week we settled on a Saturday venture to Koblenz, with the intent of taking another Rhine cruise, this time heading south, to see more of the sights from the vantage point of a boat.

Koblenz, from the Latin "at the merging" of two rivers, in this case the Rhine and Mosel, is strategically located and became the focal point from which various forces either rallied or established fortifications to defend against invading armies. A fortress city since the time of the Romans, first under Juluis Ceaser, and a few years later under Drusus. A bridge was built about 49 AD, parts of which are still visible. For centuries thereafter, a host of would-be conquerors, including the Franks under Charlemagne, took control of this region. The town was sacked and destroyed by the Normans 892. Thereafter, the French, Swedes and various ecclesiastical leaders, under the auspices of the Holy Roman Empire, controlled the city and surrounding area.
I certainly wanted to see the fortress but we were pressed for time and opted for the cruise instead--perhaps for another time. Our cruise took us from Koblenz to Boppard and back, a total of three hours. Just Arendje and I took on this trip. The first castle was Schloss Stolzenfels. This castle defines the artistry of the romantic period. The chapel is resplendent. Our pictures included a shroud around a portion so I included these to give a visual sense of this gem of the Rhine.

Along the way we saw a number of small communities, some with only a few houses and others with quite an enclave of residences with their church dominating the landscape of the quiet but picturesque villages. The adjacent hills on the east side of the river are covered in well tended rows of grape ines. Hardly a spot was bare.

Over the town of Braubach is the castle of Marksburg. It is the only medieval castle of the Middle Rhine that has never been destroyed and is also one of the principal sites of the Unesco Rhine Gorge. The castle was built to protect the town of Braubach and to reinforce the customs facilities. It was built about 1117. In 1283 a Count Eberhard bought it and through the 14th and 15th century, the high noble counts rebuilt the castle constantly.

I realize I need to learn so much more about the architecture, art and history of the areas in order to better appreciate the elements that shaped the cultural heritage of the people. This part of Europe appears to have been at the center of ongoing clashes in bygone eras, much like the Middle East is today. This is one of the reasons it is so fascinating. The tough, proud demeanor of the German psyche must have been shaped in part at least by the turbulent interchanges with other peoples over the centuries.