Sunday, August 1, 2010

Mannheim - a German Anomaly




Mannheim is a conundrum.  How can a city be both an industrial and manufacturing giant and a center for theater and the musical arts?  Indeed a German anomaly!  In my own field of study, I am fascinated by paradox - characteristics that don't fit established patterns.  Mannheim opened my awareness to a number of these. Mannheim is the only city in Germany where the streets are laid out on a grid with grid addresses like R4-12.  It is also a prime example of Germany's thriving industrial machine.  The largest chemical company in the world is  based here, as well as a huge Benz factory, John Deere and Siemens.  At the same time, Mannheim has an Academy of Pop Music.  This no doubt goes back 
to an era when Mannheim was considered the place to be for young and aspiring musicians.  Mozart said, "I love Mannheim and Mannheim loves me".  Apparently that was not the case, as they refused him an opportunity to demonstrate his musical genius with their renowned orchestra.  Mozart's impetuous nature and penchant for slander may have been part of the reason but there was no doubt more to it than that.  

This city is noted for some other interesting facts.  Karl Benz introduced the first automobile here.  

Mannheim also lays claim to the first 
bicycle although this is disputed.  For the first time, I noted an unrelated but interesting fact.  
Germany is famous for the wide selection of beer but what I didn't know is there are over 500 kinds of mineral water available.  
Arendje and I were the connoisseurs of one rather flavorful example when we stopped for lunch in one of their many open air cafes.
Our day consisted of revisiting the gardens of Schwetzingen which we had visited early in the spring (remember the Easter eggs) and had promised to come back to and the palace in Mannheim, the official residence of the Palatinate.  
The 178 acre park and gardens engaged
 us most of the morning.  The pictures included here were all taken in this beautiful setting.  The palace itself is the largest Baroque palace in Germany.  It is five city blocks long and two blocks wide.  The palace complex is now a University with 400 rooms and 2000 windows.  We took an English audio tour and ventured through a number of elegantly decorated rooms reminiscent of this ornate architectural period.  Karl Theodore Prince Elector did not win many friends among the populace of Bavaria when he constructed the palace in Mannheim(see first picture below) and summer residence in Schwetzingen. 


We ran out time and energy before we ran out of places to see here. We also went into a beautiful Jesuit Church near the palace. Green marble complemented the 
beautiful artwork and graceful lines.  Two pipe organs, works of art on their own occupied the second level. This was certainly one of the visual highlights of the day.



















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