Sunday, October 4, 2009

Cruising the Rhine: from Koblenz to Boppard

We almost got our self royally lost, but luck was with us and we made a few fortunate turns and found our way to our intended destinations. There is a confusing array of autobahns here and without a GPS, getting to where you want to go is hit and miss. That will be our next big purchase. This week we settled on a Saturday venture to Koblenz, with the intent of taking another Rhine cruise, this time heading south, to see more of the sights from the vantage point of a boat.

Koblenz, from the Latin "at the merging" of two rivers, in this case the Rhine and Mosel, is strategically located and became the focal point from which various forces either rallied or established fortifications to defend against invading armies. A fortress city since the time of the Romans, first under Juluis Ceaser, and a few years later under Drusus. A bridge was built about 49 AD, parts of which are still visible. For centuries thereafter, a host of would-be conquerors, including the Franks under Charlemagne, took control of this region. The town was sacked and destroyed by the Normans 892. Thereafter, the French, Swedes and various ecclesiastical leaders, under the auspices of the Holy Roman Empire, controlled the city and surrounding area.
I certainly wanted to see the fortress but we were pressed for time and opted for the cruise instead--perhaps for another time. Our cruise took us from Koblenz to Boppard and back, a total of three hours. Just Arendje and I took on this trip. The first castle was Schloss Stolzenfels. This castle defines the artistry of the romantic period. The chapel is resplendent. Our pictures included a shroud around a portion so I included these to give a visual sense of this gem of the Rhine.

Along the way we saw a number of small communities, some with only a few houses and others with quite an enclave of residences with their church dominating the landscape of the quiet but picturesque villages. The adjacent hills on the east side of the river are covered in well tended rows of grape ines. Hardly a spot was bare.



Over the town of Braubach is the castle of Marksburg. It is the only medieval castle of the Middle Rhine that has never been destroyed and is also one of the principal sites of the Unesco Rhine Gorge. The castle was built to protect the town of Braubach and to reinforce the customs facilities. It was built about 1117. In 1283 a Count Eberhard bought it and through the 14th and 15th century, the high noble counts rebuilt the castle constantly.



I realize I need to learn so much more about the architecture, art and history of the areas in order to better appreciate the elements that shaped the cultural heritage of the people. This part of Europe appears to have been at the center of ongoing clashes in bygone eras, much like the Middle East is today. This is one of the reasons it is so fascinating. The tough, proud demeanor of the German psyche must have been shaped in part at least by the turbulent interchanges with other peoples over the centuries.

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