Mainz- City of Emperors

Mainz Cathedral of St. Martin (Mainzer Dom) over 1,000 years old

Mainz is able to capture the appeal of almost any visitor.  It has a rich, even fabled history from Roman times  through to the turbulent period of the ruling religious aristocracy of the Catholic Church to the Third Reich and the Jewish persecution. Geographically it sits at the confluence of the Main and the Rhine a strategically critical center for transportation, trade, commerce, defense and wine production.  Over the centuries it was the seat of government and the coronation place of seven emperors.

Mainz visually commands attention.  The grandeur of the city beckons one to explore its history and unravel the mystery behind the aura of  importance this place seems to emanate.  St, Martins Cathedral dominates the central square.  It was the seat of the Archbishop of Mainz- the Episcopal See.  It was consecrated in 911 AD and over the centuries has undergone extensive renovations to conform to the architectural standards of the time.  Wars, natural aging, shifting river beds and fires all forced various structural modifications.  Even today it is in the midst of the major interior and exterior refurbishing.  Like many of the major cathedrals of Germany, it sheer size and grandeur bespeak its importance.

Mainz has a collection of generational  remains in the form of architecture, artifacts, relics and written history to capture one's imagination and cater to the appeal of diverse interests.  It is this diversity that makes this city intriguing.  It is a city to be visited numerous times to begin to appreciate its rich historical heritage:

Christ Church 1898–1903, bombed in 1945 and rebuilt in 1948

• Roman-Germanic central museum  It is home to Roman, Medieval, and earlier artifacts.
• Antique Maritime Museum It houses the remains of five Roman boats from the late 4th century, discovered in the 1980s.
• Roman remains, including Jupiter's column, Drusus' mausoleum, the ruins of the theatre and the aqueduct.
• The Iron Tower (Eisenturm, tower at the former iron market), a tower from the 13th century.
• The Wood Tower (Holzturm, tower at the former wood market), a tower from the 14th century.
• The Gutenberg Museum – exhibits an original Gutenberg Bible amongst many other printed books from the 15th century and later.
• The Mainz Old Town – what's left of it, the quarter south of the cathedral survived World War II.
• The Electoral Palace (Kurfürstliches Schloss), residence of the prince-elector .
• Marktbrunnen, one of the largest Renaissance fountains in Germany.
• Domus Universitatis (1615), for centuries the tallest edifice in Mainz.
• The Church of St. Stephan, with post-war windows by Marc Chagall.
• Citadel.
• Rococo churches of St. Augustin (the Augustinerkirche, Mainz) and St. Peter (the Petruskirche, Mainz).
• Church of St. Ignatius (1763).
• The Botanischer Garten der Johannes Gutenberg-Universität Mainz, a botanical garden maintained by the university
• Landesmuseum Mainz, state museum with archaeology and art.

The Städel Museum in Frankfurt

Sandro Botticelli (1444/45-1510), Idealized Female Portrait

Saturday November 6th 2010 was  cold and rainy  in Frankfurt.  No day trip was planned so we decided to visit the train station (Bahnhof) as it appeared to be more than just a train terminus.  This railway complex houses a virtual shopping mall with a focus on gastronomic appeal.  After some time spent there and with a little encouraging Arendje agreed to visit another museum on the other side of the Maine River.   At first we thought it was closed as the Städel Museum is undergoing extensive renovations.  After the 65 million dollar face lift it promises to be one's of Germany's premier museums.  The Städel's  Museum which opened in 1817 has an extensive collection of art and sculpture built up by donations and bequests from the citizens of Frankfurt.  This city has always enjoyed an economically advantageous position as a banking and transport center.  Additionally, Frankfurt boasts a sophisticated  and highly literate population with liberal leanings. 
The present exhibit spans seven centuries of art from the 1300s  to the present day and follows a strictly chronological  presentation.  The result is a timeline illustrating the history of European paintings.  This unique approach provides a window into the transition of art forms  through the centuries

One of its more noted paintings”, Botticelli’s Idealised Portrait of a Lady represents the linear grace of early renaissance paintings.

The Städel  has a beautiful Renoir (After the Luncheon).  This is a prime example of his work.

The Städel has a practice of buying select pieces, rather than amassing a comprehensive collection of an artist’s work.   The Stadel is said to have begun collecting French  impressionist works before French Museums did.  In 1912, the museum made the daring purchase of Van Gogh’s portrait which is considered a transitional work that “marks the turning point from the art of the 19th century to the modern period”.  The Städel director, Georg Swarzenski’s purchase of French impressionist art in the first decade of the 20th century was controversial because some critics had yet to be convinced of the value of this nouveau art.  Many referred to his provocative purchases as a French “invasion”.

The most famous painting in all of Germany, Johann H. W. Tischbein’s portrait of the poet Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, can be seen most anywhere in Germany.  This idealised but life-size portrait of Goethe, painted in Rome in 1787, has been reproduced countless times,  Goethe represents the epitome of literary genius in Germany and his name is synonymous with  romantic ideals.

No one in German museum circles thinks the Tischbein represents good art — the artist gave Goethe two left feet and distorted proportions — but it is the symbol of Germany. Along with the Städel’s famed Botticelli, it is one of its must-see “destination” paintings.