Aachen - A New Rome

More than 1200 years ago.  Aachen developed to become the Center of the European Empire.  The town has Charles the Great to thank for this ascent.  Charles built his central residence here, and fulfilled his greatest personal dream -- namely, the construction of a second 'New Rome'.  When work began on the Palatine Chapel -- when this was exactly is not known -- the foundation stone was laid for one of the most important buildings in all of Europe.  Even contemporary observers were overwhelmed by the uniqueness and pomp of the church.    During its 1200 year history, the cathedral has been renovated and expanded several times.  But never has it lost any of its unique character.  The excellent architecture and regional importance of the Aachen Cathedral led to its being added to the UNESCO World Cultural Heritage list in 1978 -- the first German historical building and art history heritage to be included in this list.

The most conspicuous part of the imposing building today is the Palatine Chapel.  On completion around the year 880 it represented a unique feat, being the first vaulted building north of the Alps.  It remained the highest vaulted room in this part of Europe for centuries.  During the reign of Charles the Great, the Palatine Chapel formed a part of a great palace complex, including living quarters and palace rooms, some of which survived to the present day.

Charles father, the Franconian king Pippin, had resided there at times.  His son Charles had been able to use the hot springs  -- which the Romans in their time had also enjoyed -- to recover from their travels and battles.  When Charles decided to settle in Aachen, his plan to extend his father's courts and favorite residence matured and he decided to turn them into an Imperial residence.  The Palatine Chapel lay at the heart of these ambitious plans.  The new palace of the Christian emperor necessitated a new representative church.

King Charles born in 742 was also known as Charlemagne.  He is recognized as the Father of Europe and the first of the great kings and rulers that followed after him.  His power and influence extended beyond the confines of present day Germany to include France, Italy and much of eastern and northern Europe.  Much of his life was spent  (53 campaigns) suppressing uprisings, battling insurgent forces and in conquests to extend his realm.  He was responsible for much of the christianizing of Europe, albeit, sometimes with brutal means. At one time 4500 Saxons were beheaded in one day.  The options were baptism or death for the pagan Saxons.  He was the consummate leader ruling with persuasion, strategy, diplomacy, energy, passion, humour and vision.   Although uneducated himself, he directed  the most just and enlightened government that Europe had known since Theodoric the Goth.  A staunch follower of the church, his generosity knew no bounds when it came to furthering the cause of Christianity, even going so far as to send money to persecuted Christians in foreign lands.

Historically seen, the cathedral  has had great fortune that the mighty dome with its 16 sided two-story ambulatory, the two-sided Imperial Lodge, the entrance hall and the West side have all remained virtually unchanged to the present day.  All parts of the building are of the highest quality, both of craftsmanship and technology, and reflect the antique Imperial demands of the monarch.  The cathedral was designed as a visual emblem of the spiritual and political renewing of the Occident.

The central building was inspired by the Eastern Roman empire.  This layout had been favored since the fifth century for all monumental buildings of representation in by Byzantium.  Charles the great however was not content to simply cite renowned famous examples from classical antiquity.  To cement his political and religious authority he spared neither troubled or expense importing original parts and furnishings from the Roman Empire.  The slender pillars in the Emporium of the Palatino church were carried over the Alps and brought to Aachen on the Emperor's demand.  Pope Hadrian himself gave permission for this to happen.  The richly decorated Proserpina sarcophagus also came to Aachen in this connection. 

However, the magnificence of the interior was not created solely through costly antiques.  Local, Carolinian workshops were also utilized to a great extent and displayed their many skills.  The exquisite works of art, such as the brawny grilles on the gallery and the bronze doors in the main and side entrances were produced for by Carolingian in workshops and were cast locally.  Of the original furnishings, more than 20 antique pillars, each bronze grilles and four bronze doors of remained to the present day, including the portal door known as the Wolf store in the west wall of the church which is now the main portal.

By sometime around 800, the court architect Otto of Metz had succeeded in setting his master's vision down in stone; the Palatine Chapel was complete.  The Christmas of the year 800 produced a further highlight: Pope Leo the third crown in Rome the Franconian King Charles is the new Emperor of the Holy Roman Empire.

The Palatino chapel was also compiles the earthly remains of its builder.  Charles the great died on 28 January 814 and was laid that same day in the antique sarcophagus, the Proserpina sarcophagus which can be found today in the cathedral treasure chamber.  In 1165, Emperor Friedrich the first also known as Barbarossa, was responsible for the corporate canonization of Charles the Great the bones of the great ruler were removed on this occasion and rest today in the sumptuous Charles shrine, completed in 1215.  At this shrine is more than 2 m long and covered with gold plated silver and enamel copper plates.  The lavish decoration consists of 16 solid silver figurines of the ruler on the side of the shrine.  It stands today in the center of the Gothic vestibule.

The long history of the cathedral in Aachen makes it unique witness of the Carolingian era.  Only in Aachen has a building survived to the present day which so closely linked with the name of Charles the great.  Even after the completion of the Palatine Chapel and the death of the mighty Emperor, the cathedral retained its status through all architectural developments as an exceptional monument of historical significance.  A great historical weight is the throne of Charles the great, to be found in the Western Bay of the balcony.  Ascending to the throne was an important part of the coronation ceremony, symbolizing coming into possession of the empire.  Otto 1 was crowned here in 936 this marked the commencement of a colourful 600 year period of coronations in Aachen.  Right up until 1531, 30 German Kings took their seats on Charles throne in a festive ceremony, symbolically succeeding the celebrated ruler.

Even during the life of Charles the Great, Aachen Cathedral was an important center of relic worship.  During the late Middle Ages, the cathedral gained super regional significance for pilgrimages.  From 1349 on and every seven years streams of pilgrims from all over Europe came to Aachen to pay tribute to the exceptional relic treasures to be found there.  From this time on, Aachen Cathedral has enjoy the same status as the famous relic sites in Jerusalem, Rome and Santiago to Compostela.  Nor is it only the relics of Charles the Great which attracts such numbers.  Since then there has been a whole number of further highly significant relics  added to the collection. 
The cathedral claims possession of unique textile relics such as Mary's dress, Christ's swaddling clothes and loincloth, or the beheading of John the Baptist.  Upon completion of Charles shrine in 1215 work commenced upon a suitable safekeeping for these treasures.  The shrine of Mary was finally completed in 1239.  This treasure chest is adorned with precious stones and is now, following almost 12 years of restoration work is on display again in the cathedral.  Pilgrimages are still made too Aachen even today.  More than 85,000 pilgrims were numbered here in the year 2000 alone.

The old Palatino Chapel could no longer cope with the large celebrations connected with the coronations, nor with the ever-growing tide of pilgrims.  Thus in 1355, the foundation capital decided to extend the building.  The new chancellor was completed after 60 years of construction on 28 January 1414, the anniversary of Charles the Great death, and Aachen Cathedral had another famous addition.  Not only the size and slender grace of this chancel was fascinating.  Using filigree buttresses and no heavy outer walls, the results flooded with light, was an architectural masterpiece.  More than 1000 m² of glass were incorporated -- no wonder that the chancel is known today as Aachen's Glasshouse.

We were not able to spend as much time as we needed  to see everything Aachen had to offer, but it still remains one of the highlights of our many trips in Germany.  Too much history is attached to this city to bypass.  We were glad we took the time to stop here.

Mannheim - a German Anomaly

Mannheim is a conundrum.  How can a city be both an industrial and manufacturing giant and a center for theater and the musical arts?  Indeed a German anomaly!  In my own field of study, I am fascinated by paradox - characteristics that don't fit established patterns.  Mannheim opened my awareness to a number of these. Mannheim is the only city in Germany where the streets are laid out on a grid with grid addresses like R4-12.  It is also a prime example of Germany's thriving industrial machine.  The largest chemical company in the world is  based here, as well as a huge Benz factory, John Deere and Siemens.  At the same time, Mannheim has an Academy of Pop Music.  This no doubt goes back 
to an era when Mannheim was considered the place to be for young and aspiring musicians.  Mozart said, "I love Mannheim and Mannheim loves me".  Apparently that was not the case, as they refused him an opportunity to demonstrate his musical genius with their renowned orchestra.  Mozart's impetuous nature and penchant for slander may have been part of the reason but there was no doubt more to it than that.  

This city is noted for some other interesting facts.  Karl Benz introduced the first automobile here.  

Mannheim also lays claim to the first 
bicycle although this is disputed.  For the first time, I noted an unrelated but interesting fact.  
Germany is famous for the wide selection of beer but what I didn't know is there are over 500 kinds of mineral water available.  
Arendje and I were the connoisseurs of one rather flavorful example when we stopped for lunch in one of their many open air cafes.

Our day consisted of revisiting the gardens of Schwetzingen which we had visited early in the spring (remember the Easter eggs) and had promised to come back to and the palace in Mannheim, the official residence of the Palatinate.  
The 178 acre park and gardens engaged
 us most of the morning.  The pictures included here were all taken in this beautiful setting.  The palace itself is the largest Baroque palace in Germany.  It is five city blocks long and two blocks wide.  The palace complex is now a University with 400 rooms and 2000 windows.  We took an English audio tour and ventured through a number of elegantly decorated rooms reminiscent of this ornate architectural period.  Karl Theodore Prince Elector did not win many friends among the populace of Bavaria when he constructed the palace in Mannheim(see first picture below) and summer residence in Schwetzingen. 


We ran out time and energy before we ran out of places to see here. We also went into a beautiful Jesuit Church near the palace. Green marble complemented the 
beautiful artwork and graceful lines.  Two pipe organs, works of art on their own occupied the second level. This was certainly one of the visual highlights of the day.