Bruhl - Augustusburg and Falkenlust

After visiting Prague, I was feeling a little ho-hum, thinking how do we match that.  So it was with somewhat less enthusiasm we headed north towards Bruhl to see another Unesco World Heritage site - Schlosser Augustusburg und Falkenlust.  It was the summer residence of the Elector Archbishop of Cologne, Clemens August.  He commissioned the construction to Francois de Cuvillies starting in 1728 on the site of a medieval moated castle.  In the process, Cuvillies enlisted famous artists known throughout Europe to contribute to the exterior and interior design, artwork and the garden complex.  Herein lies the beauty of this site.  It is a comprehensive work of art representing the best of the late baroque period.  There is a unified ordered layout to the palace and the gardens, each complimenting the other.  Symmetry is reflected in every aspect of the design and construction.  The rococo style, at times, can be overwhelming in the excess of its ornate and flowery presentation.  Augustburg managed to achieve a balance between the seemingly ostentatious sculpting on the walls and trim and the spacious grandeur of the rooms.  Luxury and elegance is certainly the predominating impression but also artistry in its grandest form.  Credit must be bestowed upon the state of North-Rhine Westphalia for recognizing what they had and for the painstaking restoration and maintenance required to make this available in the form we enjoy today.  I felt this site deserve special attention for the collective harmonious impact it leaves upon the senses.  The ornamentation, stucco work, tapestries, porcelain, frescoes, statues, tiles, woodwork, furnishings, portraits, sculpted marble, iron work, Chinese art and horticulture are tastefully integrated, sufficient to captivate, yet not to overwhelm or detract from its surroundings.

Clemens August was a passionate hunter and it was clear his summer residence was to serve more than just a retreat and reception place for important guests.  About 2 kilometers away from the palace, he constructed a hunting lodge known as Falkenlust, meaning falcon bush.  As the name suggests, he had an  interest in falcons. This served as a retreat as the palace itself was undergoing construction during much of Clemens August's life.  Here he would indulge his other interests.  Off to the side of the residence were constructed buildings for his falcons and others for horses.  A number of these rooms housed fascinating displays and collections of the falcon hunting paraphanaelia.

The grounds of both the palace and the hunting lodge encompassed a considerable tract of land.  Trails crisscross the property, with trees centuries old.  This wooded parkland provided a pleasant promenade for local residences.  We spent a couple hours just walking to the Falconlust and otherwise enjoying the peaceful setting.  This was perhaps why this site was so appealing, after having endured the the congested tourist crush of Prague.

Visiting Bruhl brought home the day to day circumstances and life style of the royalty of 18th Century central Germany.  Although one could disdain their excess, they also left wonderful legacy's of art.  The population was much saddened at the death of the popular prince, as was said "with Clemens August we wore blue and white, and it was just like living in paradise..."

Prague - Golden City

The "Golden City" is a fitting description of this  beautiful city.  We took advantage of a long weekend to take in the sites.  We were probably not as prepared as we should have been as we were only a few kilometers into the Czech Republic and were stopped by the police and handed a hefty fine for not having a required sticker on the car to pay for the use of the toll road we were apparently on.  In our defense, we had seen no signs indicating any such stipulation.  This rather sour start was further aggravated by another violation when we parked in a restricted zone to visit a fortress.  The police were neither friendly nor the least bit accommodating to our overtures for leniency or pleas of ignorance but were willing to be paid cash on the spot.  Unlike the Germans, the Czechs did not indicate or express a willingness to communicate in English, unless they were a vendor; so much for encouraging or accommodating tourists.  After we shook off that encounter, we proceeded on to Prague and fortunately, the rest of  our experience was pleasant enough to turn the tide of our negative first contact.                                                                                                                                               

I had high expectations for Prague as we had heard so much about it. I was not disappointed.  We spent the next two days walking from our bed and breakfast location visiting one chosen destination after another.  Both the appealing and the more distasteful 

aspects of being a tourist haven are present in Prague. As a city that derives most of its revenue from tourists, it has, as you would expect,  both savory and unsavory elements.

On the downside, some of the venues were outrageously expensive.  Most of the churches were roped off to limit access to closer inspection and it lacked the  friendly atmosphere common to smaller sites.  On the upside, the streets and parks were clean and well kept.  There were ample thorough fares designated for pedestrians and the range and variety of eating establishments would appeal to any palate.  Best of all, the city had variety, elegance and general visual appeal.    

There is much already written about this city.  There are countless web pages and tourist guides devoted to the architecture, culture, history and associated legends. One involves the "Good King Wenceslas."  A popular Christmas carol written about is that he used to go out and give alms to the poor peasants on the Feast of Stephen (the second day of Christmas, December 26).  During the journey as his page is about to give up the struggle against the cold weather he was able to continue by the heat miraculously emanating from the king's footprints in the snow.  The legend is based on the life of Saint Wenceslas who was actually a Duke in Bohemia (the other name of the area).  


If travelling to Europe, Prague should be near the top of the list with some provisos in mind.  I named my blog "Back Door Europe" for good reason.  I wanted to capture elements off the beaten track which were still worthy of mention.and visits, if time would allow.  I find the routes less traveled provide a more intimate glimpse into the rich, cultural heritage of central Europe without the superfluous accouterments invariably connected with places like Prague, Paris, Rome and Versailles.

Speyer and Lorsch- True Germanic Architecture

Within an hour of Frankfurt are four Unesco World Heritage Sites.  Only 35 minutes south is one of these sites and we happened to hit it on the day of an annual festival.  The little town of Lorsch was abuzz with marching bands, special booths in the market place, festive activities for children in addition to a medieval parade with local citizens dressed in the garb of centuries past.  They take their celebrations seriously, sparing no effort to relive, celebrate and otherwise find any reason to have a good time.  German flare for harmonizing festive activities with entrepreneurial opportunities seems to have no limits.  Here again they work hard, play hard and in times past, fought hard.  This engaging combination works well for them.  Germany is thriving economically, while at the same time saving the vestiges of times past through drama, music, holidays and celebrations.  On each of their frequent holidays everything except local eating establishments close down and people are out mixing in their market places, commemorating, celebrating, enjoying the food, beverages and fruits of their toil.



We went to Lorsch to visit one of the sites recognized by Unesco - the only remaining free standing structure representing the Carolingian period.  Others come close, but have been amalgamated with architectural styles of other time periods.  The Carolingian period is perhaps the earliest time in which is manifested a truly Germanic form of architecture.  It predates the Romanesque style which dominated the scene roughly from the 10th to 12th centuries.  Prior to that time, Charlemagne and various factions including the Franconians, held sway in central Europe.  Their influence on architecture, art and literature ruled the day.  There is little left to represent this period and that is why this site was deemed worthy to receive the attention, albeit not through some majestic edifice or monument.
In Lorsch, an abbey was constructed in 764 by the then Emperor, on his own property, the intent of which was to solidify the link with Rome and Papal Christian supremacy. This Abbey with the acquisition of important relics of the time gained fame as a place of pilgrimage.  In addition, it acquired an independent status, not subject to the clergy who tended to rule and sap the wealth of the communities under their stewardship.

The site itself was not particularly noteworthy from a visual standpoint, but the community of Lorsch has gone to great ends to provide visitors an understanding of what was previously there, its historical significance to Germany and the architecture of the time.  To our good fortune the explanations were in English.

The gate depicted  is the last remnant of what was an extensive abbey complex.  Here were located significant artifacts including a library with substantive works on medicine and religion.  It gained considerable favor and was endowed with privileges and lands thereby becoming politically powerful and rich.

On the same day, another 35 minutes down the road, we went to Speyer, also a World Heritage Site.  The Romanesque Basilica, identified as an Imperial Cathedral, was founded by the Emperor Conrad II in 1030.  It out measures all other structures of the 11th Century.  The crypt is preserved in its original condition and houses the tombs of eight German Emperors, kings and several Bishops.  This structure is considered to be a turning point in European architecture and one of the finest representations of Romanesque architecture of its time.

The vaulted ceilings provide a spacious impression.  I walked from one end to other and counted 175 steps.  Each of the 24 massive pillars occupy 48 square feet of floor space.  The red sandstone adds a rich hue to the otherwise austere grandeur of this aging, but well preserved structure.  It is quickly approaching its millennial consecration date of 1061.

Saalburg - Roman Fort & Braunfels

Saalburg is the only one of a series of Old Roman forts built along the northern frontier of the Roman Empire which has undergone a total reconstruction.  The forts were constructed during the first century and later abandoned around 260 A.D.  Along with walls and watchtowers, they  represented a line (limes) of demarcation of the Empire extending over 550 kilometers.


We had the benefit of a guided tour in English.   An archeologist shared the highlights of a day in the life of an auxiliary soldier.  As a consequence of extensive excavations, they have been able to piece together a basic understanding of what life was like nearly 2000 years ago.  The Romans introduced practices and advances which were subsequently lost during the dark ages.  The soldiers were not actually native Roman citizens, but rather auxiliary soldiers recruited from the ranks of the local population.  In time they were offered honorary citizenship with particular rights accorded them including a pension, marriage and ability to buy property. 

Life was not so good on the other side of the Limes.  Germans who ventured too close to the line and began farming or constructing houses were harassed by the soldiers.  A record in the Roman annals is told of two disgruntled citizens who embarked to Rome and appealed to Nero for the right to build near the line. " In the interval of waiting for Nero, who had other cares to occupy him, they visited the usual places shown to barbarians, and among them the theatre of Pompey, where they were to contemplate the size of the population.  There, to kill time (they had not sufficient knowledge to be amused by the play), they were asking questions about the crowd seated in the auditorium — the distinctions between the orders — which were the knights? — where was the senate? — when they noticed a few men in foreign dress on the senatorial seats.  They inquired who they were, and, on hearing that this was a compliment paid to the envoys of nations distinguished for their courage and for friendship to Rome, exclaimed that no people in the world ranked before Germans in arms or loyalty, went down, and took their seats among the Fathers.  The action was taken in good part by the onlookers, as a trait of primitive impetuosity and generous rivalry. Nero presented both with the Roman citizenship, and instructed the Frisians to leave the district. As they ignored the order, compulsion was applied by the unexpected dispatch of a body of auxiliary horse, which captured or killed the more obstinate of those who resisted."


Although this place was interesting and worth a visit 
there was not much to take pictures of nor did it require more than a couple hours to meander through.

To make the most of our day we headed to Braunfels, a castle recommended by Elfi (mentioned in earlier blogs).  She said it is reminiscent of a Sleeping Beauty Castle and it was only fifteen minutes from Saalburg.


The drive to the location was as pleasant an outing as one could wish for.  The day was sunny, the countryside resplendent with the fresh greenery of spring and the company was good, consisting of all the staff on the medical floor. 




German forethought and planning are evident in the allocation and distribution of land.  Villages dot the countryside but in such a way as to provide large tracts of green belts.  There are no farm houses as in the US and Canada.  Owners of the properties live in nearby towns and villages, leaving a very pastoral scene unencumbered by farm houses or residences. Interspersed between nearly every field are belts of forest.  This mix of fields, forest and picturesque town sites make for a visually appealing layout.  The eyes are constantly presented with a changing vista. 


In the town site, surrounding the castle, we had lunch in  what must have been a 500 year old dwelling, with wood carvings and medieval artwork decor.  The 'oldstadt' tucked on the steep environs required some ingenious structural engineering to accommodate the town folk nestled under the protective shadow of the castle. 


Our cameras were constantly at the ready as every
corner provided another eye catching scene.  The half
timbered houses, the cobblestone streets, the quaint shops and the imposing presence of the castle could easily capture your imagination as not only a place to visit but as a place to live.  Perhaps the romantic appeal would diminish over time.  It beckons one to times and lifestyles long since past but maintains the charm of bygone eras. 


These last two pictures reflect the more idyllic aspects of our time here.  We are relishing the moments, as the smiles do indicate.

Holland in Two Days!!

Our first stop was Eethen, a small village in south east Holland, where Arendje was born.  We didn`t stop long but went on the Genderen, a small village where the Walraven`s had a farm and sold feed to other farmers for their animals.  The farm house is still there although it is hard to recognize because it has been painted white; it hasn`t been lived in for 34 years but is used as a business.  Genderen is a very small village - immaculately clean and picturesque.





The house used to be a brown brick but is now white and the windows are much bigger than they used to be.


Next we were on to Rotterdam to pick up our `Holland Pass` - tickets we bought for the events we wanted to see.  We were too late to take a harbour cruise so we drove to Kinderdijk.  Here we see 19 old windmills built in the 1740`s to drain the water off the farm land.  The windmills are still standing although not used for the same purpose - except for 2 which have been mechanized.  Very authentic!

We spent the night at Alan Jenks and Jen Walraven`s house.  She was very gracious and we enjoyed visiting with her and her husband and meeting their cute little red-haired girl Kylee.  Kylee is 17 months old and she was born in Holland.  They came to Holland to set up a chiropractic practice.  The visit made me homesick for my grandkids.

Early Saturday morning we were on the way to Keukenhof to see the flower gardens.  We managed to beat most of the crowds and even the men thought the stop was worthwhile.  By the time we left at around 11:00, the people were starting to be wall-to-wall and as we drove away, we passed at least 5 miles of traffic trying to get to the site - many, many tour buses and private vehicles full of people on their way to see the tulips, daffodils and hyacinths.

The gardens plant more than 7 million bulbs every year, is open for 2 months and is the most photographed garden in the world.  These are some of the pictures we were able to take:  

We drove to Amsterdam next - although we didn`t spend a lot of time there - we did do a canal cruise around the harbor viewing the 17th century buildings which were mostly warehouses but have been converted to condos - very narrow but high.  Most have a pulley system hanging from the top floor to move furniture in and out since the stairs are too narrow.


We also toured the Rijks Museum which holds many masters pieces by Rembrandt and Reuben.  The museum is just the right size - two floor - and it is easy to enjoy the magnificent pieces hanging there.

Idar-Oberstein - The Gemstone Capital

German entrepreneurial spirit and competitive zeal has found fascinating expression in the art and craft of the gem industry.  For more than five centuries craftsmen have plied their artistic talent and finely tuned skills in cutting, shaping and polishing agates, jasper and precious gems.  During the first few centuries, local mines provided ample supply of agates and jasper.  As local resources dwindled, German emigrants travelling to far flung countries and(particularly Brazil) started to collect precious stones and bring them back to Germany.  Here in Idar- Oberstein,  factories began to specialize, each developing sets of skills designed to enhance the quality, value and appearance of the stone and gems they worked with. Idar-Oberstein is referred to as the 'gemstone' capital of Germany and has a world wide reputation as a cutting center for all types of gems; only Antwerp exceeds it in reputation as the diamond cutting center of the world.  I purchased a set of blue-dyed agate bookends [only 20 euros].

The Edelsteinmuseum provides a unique glimpse  into this fascinating world.  Gems from all over the world, with spectacular samples of amethyst, opal, jasper, precious gems of every type, crystalline formations and carvings displayed the creative and artistic ability of the local craftsmen on three floors.  We were treated to a guided tour of the museum with over 9000 exhibits of incalculable value.  The displays were spectacular but more than that, the museum pays tribute to the agate cutters, hollow cutters, facetteurs, lapidaries, diamond cutters and especially the outstanding works of local gemstone engravers and goldsmiths.  This is certainly
a diversion from the normal tourist fare, but nevertheless, an engaging way to spend quality holiday time.

Although was much to see in Idar-Oberstein a change of scenery seemed in order so we headed a half hour down the road to the picturesque town of Bernkastel on the Mosel River.  It was a beautiful spring day and this little town came highly recommended.  True to form, the city was a mix of old and new spanning both sides of the beautiful Mosel River.  The old part of town was full of eye-catching half timbered houses, quaint shops and narrow cobblestone streets referred to as "gasse".  Here vehicles were prohibited as they probably couldn't navigate the streets anyway.  We  spent a leisurely Saturday afternoon taking in the sights and sounds along the river.  We drove up to the ruins of an old fortress and from this prominent vantage point, we could see up and down the Mosel.  This is prime vineyard country and all the steep hills were covered in vines. Undoubtedly a pretty site in full bloom.

Outpost Alpha and the Fulda Gap

The stark reality of the Cold War  was brought home for  us on our visit to OP Alpha, a critical buffer between east and west for over forty years.  This remote outpost was strategically located in what is referred to as the Fulda Gap. It was here, along the border that divided East and West Germany, that was deemed the most probable axis of Soviet attack. The Gap refers to a corridor of lowlands which is suitable for operations by large-scaled armored forces.  This would give the Eastern block  ready access to Germany's heartland and Frankfurt, the financial center of Europe.  From the vantage point of the lookout tower, we could see across to similarly positioned East German lookout.  This site is now a museum due to the efforts of citizens and supportive historical groups.  The museum recounts and memorializes this important period in world history.  I have included one commanding officers journal entries as a reminder of the events and precipitous relations between east and west.  Across the former line is another museum depicting the Cold War period from the Soviet perspective.

We visited Fulda which offered more than just a military base of Allied operations.  Rich in history, founded in 742 under the benevolent tutilage of  Boniface who later became the patron saint of Germany. He was largely responsible for Christianizing north and east of the old Roman Empire borders.  The legend of the felling of Thor's Oak marks transition from paganism to Christianity.  The city has acquired status as a "Baroque City".  The statue on the right being a good example of Baroque sculpture.  Throughout most of the eighteenth century the city corps went through extensive renovations including the cathedral which was entirely redone in baroque style on the interior.   It is odd to see a Romanesque church on the outside and the interior representative of 600 years later.  The work is never the less magnificent and gives a good picture of that flamboyant period.


We stopped for lunch at a self-serve bakery and while preparing to eat, I turned around and there at the door was an elephant, his trunk obviously enjoying the aroma coming from the facility.
I could have reached over and touched it.  He stayed there for
10 or 15 seconds and slowly continued on along the car free
section of the city core.  He was not tied in any way.  Someone
was taking him on a leisurely walk to go shopping.  Quite odd!

We decided to take in one more museum of the local palace.  Here, like many other places, the the clergy held dual role as both ecclesiastical and political authority so they live in palatial residences and enjoyed all the privileges attached to nobility until Napoleon came along and stopped the practice.  Although it is a feast for the eyes to see the pomp and splendor of these residences, it still leaves a bitter reminder of the disparity that existed between the ruling classes and the local peasantry.

On the streets, one of the first signs of the summer season is the town squares crowded with people with various forms of entertainment heralding the crowds of tourists and shoppers alike.  This will be a welcome addition to the regular sights and sounds of Germany.